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intensification of such questions, alongside an escalation of the ‘how to’ practices
into new social and cultural fields (as e.g. wearing a Muslim headscarf or ‘hijab’;
see the next chapter).
Figure 5: Gothic make-up guidelines
As said, globalization has turned these patterns of recognizability – of semiotic
homogeneity, in other words – into worldwide scripts for social and cultural life.
Patterns of uniformity acquire recognizability across borders, driven as they are
by a consumption capitalism that looks for market expansion for the same
products. Conformity is a market ideal; it is also turning into a social and cultural
ideal. The internet with its global reach and increasing availability strongly
contributes to this, and we participate en masse on online platforms that are
supposedly about self-actualization and the freedom to connect, yet run by
companies that are making a lot of money out of our identity work. Thus, we
have “standardized presences on sites like Facebook” (Lanier 2010: 16): sites
that, while getting rich on advertising money, provide strict cultural scripts and
templates for self-representation which can lead to, in efforts to conform, “self-
policing to the point of trying to achieve a precorrected self” (Turkle 2011: 258).
All of this sounds perhaps as pessimistic as Marcuse’s old statements, and to
some degree it is – as Appadurai (1996: 7) puts it, “where there is consumption
there is pleasure, and where there is pleasure there is agency. Freedom, on the
other hand, is a rather more elusive commodity.” But there is another side to the
coin, and simplistic cultural defeatism is not a feasible approach.
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The inflation of details
While we see the tremendous pressures towards conformity as the key to many
contemporary aspects of life, we also witness how these processes of
homogenization inevitably contain a small space for ‘uniqueness’. And this small
space is a space of details – the space in which while most of our behaviour is
fundamentally in line with the micro-hegemonies that regulate it. In this space
we do place some accents, small deviations we call characteristics of our own
uniqueness. These deviations can be, and usually are, extremely small – they can
even be invisible to most people; see the small tattoo on the woman’s body in
Figure 6. The tattoo would be visible only when the body is uncovered – its
default invisibility here is the whole point.
Figure 6: an invisible tattoo
Note also, in Figure 7, how extremely small differences appear to invoke a broad
and deep complex of differences in ‘style’ and thence, in ‘personality’. The three
suits worn here are fundamentally overwhelmingly similar. Differences in color,
cut, and attributes (e.g. the watch chain) determine the ways in which we project
larger complexes of distinction onto the small differences. We are witnessing
here the fundamental semiotic mechanism at work: details are metonymically
inflated so as to stand for something far bigger and more profound, a difference
in ‘personality’, i.e. in the script I offer to others as the way in which they should
read and recognize me.
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Figure 7: three different suits
‘Choice’, now, is located in the nano-politics of these details. As said, the system
of consumer capitalism drifts strongly towards conformity. Goods can only yield
maximum profits when they can be standardized and sold to huge numbers of
customers. So what we see is that our actual range of ‘choice’ is severely
restricted: we can choose between small differences, we move within a narrow
bandwidth of choice. All cars are in essence very similar, and their key features
and characteristics are entirely predictable. Within this overwhelming similarity
of objects, we distinguish between brands, models, colors, options and gadgets
and believe such choices are fundamental. We believe they reflect our most
essential personality features, we believe that others will also recognize us in
those terms, and we know that such choices will have effects on the price of the
commodity we purchase. In actual fact, whenever we make such intricate
choices, we make them within a very narrow range of differences, none of which
are in themselves fundamental, but all of which have been made to be seen as
fundamental by means of the mythologization described by Barthes discussing
the ‘new Citroën’.
Producers play into this pattern, by continuously suggesting and emphasizing
that the choice for a particular detail over others both reflects who you are and
creates you in that way. Your ‘accent’, so to speak, thereby becomes the totality
of your personality, and every possible choice you make in consumption is likely
to trigger these metonymic associative attributions. Figures 8 and 9 provide
illustrations for this.
In Figure 8 we see the actor John Travolta in an advertisement by the luxury
watch brand Breitling. The message in the advertisement is that, while Travolta
is universally known as an actor, this is just his ‘career’; in actual fact, he is a
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pilot, and this more adventurous (and again, invisible) identity of his is projected
onto the Breitling watch. Breitling indexes who Travolta really is.
Figure 8: the real John Travolta
And Figure 9 shows us ‘the Bentley man’: an older and manifestly affluent man –
tailored suit, classic haircut, and the Chesterfield sofa – who tells the rest of the
world to sod off – the middle finger. The Bentley, that’s me, is the message. Again,
this is not a ‘me’ people would often see (since I’m a distinguished gentleman I
probably don’t show my middle finger as a routine), but that is the point: this is
my true self, the self most people don’t usually see. In a classic metaphor, the true
self is hidden, invisible and only perceivable to some – and on the basis of details
that should be read in a particular way. The hidden tattoo reflects the true
personality of the woman in Figure 6, the chain watch that of a person who
wears that particular suit; the Breitling watch is the index towards Travolta’s
true personality, and the Bentley car reveals that the man behind the wheel is
someone who does what he likes and does not care about what others think of
him.
All of those small signals need to be read as indicative of the whole personality.
Anyone who observes advertisements every once in a while will not fail to pick
this up. While every commodity is in itself mundane and trivial, advertisements
produce the ‘adjectives’ that make some objects stand out and become
‘distinguished’ and distinguishing for those who purchase them. In a world of
conformity, even such details – the stuff that makes us unique, that creates our
‘accent’ – are offered along lines of conformity and submission.
At the same time, however, we do see agency here. The consumer is not just
someone who consumes – passively absorbs and unintentionally reproduces the
commodity’s indexicals – but someone who produces a specific and ordered self
through these acts of reproduction. At this point, we have to leave the imagery of
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