19
‘care of the self’, is quite inescapable as a point of reference here (Foucault 1988,
2003).
These fields now cover every aspect of human life, and for every aspect we see
the appearance of micro-hegemonic norms and standards: the body, food, art,
work, mobility, dress, the mind, education, name it. Figure 2 provides a self-
evident illustration of this: the way in which a female body is defined in terms of
an ideal (or at least ‘better’) ‘goal weight’. Figure 3 instantly connects this
standard of a slim, fit and healthy female body to consumption – healthy food
habits. In this illustration we see how aspects of human life – aspects which
many people would understand as belonging to the private sphere – are
intertwined with consumption behavior.
Figure 2: goal weight
Figure 3: healthy eating
20
Barthes, in another influential book, sketched the difference between ‘clothes’
and ‘fashion’ as grounded not in objective features of the objects themselves, but
in their subjective ‘adjectives’, so to speak, in the mythological attributes that
particular clothes acquired through elaborate
discourses on quality, style and
class distinction; such discourses were developed and circulated in the ‘fashion’
magazines, and they determined the commodity price of the garments (Barthes
1983). We now see that ‘fashion’, defined in those terms, has extended into an
immense terrain of social and cultural life and that, in each of these now
fashionable domains, we witness the emergence and consolidation of complexes
of instruction and prescription, management and monitoring, identity effects –
and all of this deeply interwoven with commodification. Healthy food can be
purchased and demands investments in terms of ‘choice’; physical beauty and
fitness can also be purchased, and while all of this used to be a rather ‘organic’
matter closely tied to one’s general lifestyle – fitness and physical prowess for
instance being associated with hard physical labor, as in Zola’s Bête Humaine –
all of these things have now become segmented and detached items subject to a
normative regime and driven by consumption patterns. We have moved from
one lifestyle to an infinite range of lifestyles, all of which are now objects of
discursive and semiotic elaboration and all of which can now be seen as
elementary aspects of the self.
6
We thus witness an ordered and subjected self
remarkably at odds with the
ideologies of freedom that surround it, a self that needs to establish and maintain
order over a distributed complex of micro-selves, each of which can define how
others perceive, understand and evaluate us.
7
For each new segment of social
and cultural life that becomes detached and organized as a space of discipline
and order, becomes in the same move a space of social evaluation, something
about which others can pass hard and uncompromising judgments. Such
judgments are fundamentally rooted in recognizability: I recognize this or that
aspect of behaviour as being indexical of, say, elegance, intelligence and
sophistication, or of poor taste, weakness of character or judgment, boorishness
or ‘wannabe’-ship. And I can recognize this because – pace Bourdieu – I share the
codes and conventions of this field with others. In semiotic terms, I recognize
things because of the relative degree of uniformity they dispay in relation to a
particular (usually ideal, i.e. imagined) standard. Thus, recognizability is a key
feature of how we organize the many aspects of social and cultural life; we will
strive towards maximum recognizability in most of what we do and our worst
6
See Blommaert (2010: 47ff) for an illustration of ‘American accent’ being sold over the
internet. It is an example of the infinite detailing of commodification we observe here.
7
Thus, every technological innovation creates in essence a free and unscripted space,
but becomes in practice a space filled in no time by prescriptions and norms. The social
media are case in point. While they are ideologically often seen as a space for individual
exploration and articulation, an avalanche of books on ‘how to be a star on Facebook’
have appeared, replete with detailed descriptions of how much to write, how often, and
to whom. See e.g. Deckers & Lacy (2010) for an example of the micro-practices entailed
in ‘self-branding’ online.
21
anxieties are often about not being recognized as that which we aspire to be.
Recognizability also has to do with degrees of doing: in our endeavours to be
someone or something, we can be judged as complete failures (e.g. as ‘trashy’
when trying to be ‘classy’) or failures to a degree (hence ‘wannabes’ – people
who almost get the micro-management right, but not quite so) – also depending
on the context of evaluation, and the evaluator.
Consider Figure 4, and observe especially the almost instant recognizability of
the complex of semiotic features we can label – i.e. recognize – as ‘business
culture’, ‘managerial style’, inscribed in dress, make-up, mood (smiling faces, i.e.
optimism and congeniality), the organization of bodies in space, and the
orientation towards objects such as laptops and documents.
Figure 4: Management team
Recognizability is about getting all the details right, about composing a jigsaw of
features that are in line with the normative expactations that generate
reconizability. Such arrangements are intricate and put pressure on the
resources people have at their disposal; they are compelling, and not only in
dominant sociocultural strata, as we can see from Figure 5: make-up guidelines
for a Gothic woman. Here we can see how even ‘deviant’, i.e. subcultural
identities operate on the basis of compelling guidelines and instructions.
Subcultures are as normative as mainstream ones, and deviating from norms
always amounts to trading one set of norms for another. Rejections of cultural
scripts involve complex and demanding scripts themselves, often in response to
the ‘Why?’ question that employing certain cultural scripts and consequently
ignoring others elicit from our fellow human beings (hence, e.g. ‘Why are you not
on Facebook?’). And increasing social and cultural superdiversity provokes an