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authority of Law, the chief took over personal ownership of his clan’s land (Prebble p. 139). There
were four layers in a pyramid structure. At the top was the landowner, the chief, the ‘father’ of his
clan. The second layer down consisted of tacksmen, usually kinsmen of the chief, who leased his land
and paid rent in kind or in services. Tacksmen sub-let the land to sub-tenants who mostly had fairly
meagre patches of land which got increasingly smaller with each generation as it was divided among
the sub-tenant’s sons. The largest layer, at the bottom of the pyramid, were the cotters, or landless
men. “The cotter was from birth a servant. Tradition and customary right gave him a little grazing for
a cow on the township pasture, a kail-yard and potato patch for his round stone hut, and for these
he paid a lifetime of service to the sub-tenant. He was what other men were not, herdsman,
blacksmith, weaver, tailor, shoemaker, armourer, axeman, and bowman in the last rank of clan.”
(Prebble p. 21). From Prebble’s descriptions, we are fairly safe in assuming that John McLennan as a
dyer belonged to the cotter category. There were few escapes from this life of poverty, insecurity,
and dependence on the goodwill of those higher up the pyramid. For the chiefs, the dependence and
insecurity of those below him meant that he could call on them as soldiers whenever he chose. One
means of escape was to join the English army, which is what John McLennan did.
From the “Statistical Account of Scotland” we learn about life in the parish of Kintail in 1793 when
John was a boy of five years. The account for Kintail was written by Rev R. Morison, and for Glensheil
by Rev J. MacRae. In the early part of the Eighteenth Century the parish of Glensheil was also called
Kintail, which is why I include MacRae’s comments with Morison’s. The following eleven paragraphs
are information from Morison’s account, and the next eight paragraph’s from MacRae’s.
Kintail, derived from Chean-dha-haal, “head of two salt water bays”, was a parish only 13 miles long
and 6 miles wide. This parish consisted of three districts, Glasletter which belonged to the Laird of
Chisholm and was mostly hill pasture in ten separate grazings, and Croe and Glenelchaig which
belonged to a McKenzie, Lord Seaforth. On McKenzie’s land lived 840 people, all MacRaes except for
two or three families of MacLennans. The MacRaes and MacLennans were separated not only by the
Croe River running into Loch Duich but also by some differences in language and accent.
Kintail is surrounded by high hills, the highest being Tulloch-ard. A burning barrel of tar on the
highest ridge was the signal for all Seaforth’s tenants and vassals to rendezvous next morning at
Eilean Donan castle ready for war. The oldest parishioners told Morison they had seen armed Kintail
men dancing on the leaden roof of the castle, before setting out for the battle of Sheriff-muir where
they were annihilated. Bullets from the 1719 destruction of the castle were used in Morison’s time
by some folks as weights when selling their butter and cheeses.
The people were farmers, primarily raising short-legged black cattle. Each also kept a few sheep and
goats which could access steeper pastures. Milking cows sold for 4-5 pounds and goats for 6
shillings. The 300 horses in the parish were essential for labour including ploughing, and cost 6-7
pounds.
A wooden plough was pulled by four horses abreast, with harness made of deerskin leather. Several
men were involved in ploughing:- one as a driver who held the reins gathered on a cross stick and
walked backwards, another as a ploughman holding the two handles which were almost
perpendicular, and a third to follow with a spade to deal with any earth that resisted the plough.
4
Kintail had little arable land, amounting to only 162 pennies or 54 oxen-gates. A penny of land, plus
its share of hill grass, had the carrying capacity of eight milking cows each with a following of three
‘yield cattle’ [meaning??] which included the calf. (An oxengate was the land that an ox would
plough in a year, generally 15-20 acres [Torrance, p.43]. Thus we know Kintail’s total arable land was
about 1,000 acres.)
For the full two months of April and May sowing of oats, barley and potatoes was undertaken.
Potatoes were preferred as they were less subject to weather conditions, and provided half the
year’s food supply. Fish, especially herring, from Loch Duich were a most important food source in
August and September. In August, much natural grass was cut. After drying it was made into ropes
and carried into barns for storage. In this form it was more easily carried into distant glens for
hungry cattle in stormy weather. Fields were fertilized with sea weed. In the warmer weather from
1
st
June to 12
th
August the young adults took the flocks to high grazings.
Roads in Kintail were few and poor. Many Highlanders preferred to not have good roads; “the more
inaccessible, the more secure” [p.244]. However, while inaccessibility had its advantages, lack of
roads made life harder. Other hardships included the shortage of wood and fuel, and when a
shortage of salt coincided with a big haul of herring. Incessant rain made it difficult to carry heavy
peats for fuel from the high hills or across the lochs. The farms closest to the mountains suffered
periodically from ‘scriddan’, or ‘mountain torrent’. After heavy rains high areas became so
overloaded that an opening on a mountainside would occur, with a loud frightening explosion as
gravel and stones rolled down to cause desolation of the fields below.
Kintail people imported meal, whisky, linen, tanned leather, fir-planks, and shelly sand for the fields.
They exported cattle, horses, furs, kelp, tallow, butter, and cheese. There was a famine in the
summer of 1791 when much meal had to be imported, though soon afterwards a good haul of
herring saved the day.
Morison described the people of Kintail as “tall, robust, and well-limbed; able to endure much cold
and fatigue; generous and hospitable”, [p.246], though sometimes peevish towards strangers if they
felt encroached upon. The people used to wear only locally-made woolen clothing, but by the time
of Morison’s account everyone bought linen and was neatly dressed.
There was a parochial school at Croe-side and a subscription school at Glenelchaig. The church,
called Kiel Duich, was badly damaged in 1719 by the same warship that ruined the castle but was in
good condition in Morison’s time. Only a third of the people could readily reach one of the three
places of worship, namely Kiel Duich, Glenelchaig, and the town of Dornie.
Kintail’s population in 1792 was 840, with 395 males to 445 females. There were 140 children under
6 years of age, one of whom would have been our John. There had been 54 births and 32 deaths in
the preceding twelve months.
Macrae’s account for the parish of Glenshiel is very similar to Morison’s so I will include here just the
extra details he has provided. This parish is 16 miles long and varies from 1 ½ to 4 miles wide. It
contains two narrow glens extending 2-3 miles from the head of Loch Duich. Very high steep
mountains surround the higher parts which are often rocky and covered with heath although the