5
valleys are covered with grass and some wood, but there is not much arable land in that part of the
parish. The lower part of the parish is called Letterfearn and is green intermixed with heath and a
greater proportion of the land is arable than in the higher valleys.
At that time, about 1793, there were 17 farms in the parish. Each of 15 of them “is occupied by a
number of tenants, so that each farm forms a village” [p. 125]. The number of head of stock and the
area of arable land held by each tenant was proportionate to the rent paid by each, but each did not
have to keep his stock on his own particular ground as Macrae says that the tenants grazed their
cattle “promiscuously”. The farm was not always divided evenly. In parts where the steepness
prohibited the use of horses, men had to plough the land with a hand plough. On the heights the soil
is thin, stony and barren while along the coast it is thin but a black gravelish light earth, and sea
weed from the shore was used to manure the land. It was not good country for agriculture, and
some farms were capable of growing enough food to last only ¼ of the year.
Dry weather could be expected for only 3-4 months from mid to late May to the middle of
September. The rest of the year had almost incessant rain and storms. Snow didn’t stay long on the
ground in this coastal area, and the frosts were less severe than further inland. However, two of the
most common diseases, rheumatism and sciatics, were linked to the daily damp conditions, and the
third major medical issue, ruptures, was caused by the heavy lifting and carrying the men had to do
in the absence of roads and in this rough country. A previous problem, small pox, was now kept in
check because every person was inoculated.
Oats were sown from the middle of March and sowing of barley and potatoes began on 20
th
April.
Sowing took until the end of May, and five months later at the end of October the harvest was
mostly finished. The small black cattle were the staple production. The horses and sheep were also
small in size. The milk and meat of goats was believed to have medicinal qualities.
Herrings came to Loch Duich about mid-August for a short time. The people laid up stores of herrings
in September and October, and these with potatoes were almost the only food for the poorer
people for ¾ of the year. The loch provided other fish, too, such as haddock, cod, and flounder, and
shellfish such as mussels, wilks, cockles, and limpets were gathered on the shore.
Scarcity of fuel was the chief disadvantage for the people of Glensheil. Although there was plenty of
moss, but the distance and difficulties of getting it from the rugged summits made it hard to keep up
a supply. Macrae mentions coal laws that caused bitter complaint from the people of the west coast
of Scotland.
The military road from Fort Augustus to Fort Bernera ran for twelve miles through the height of the
parish, but the road and bridges had been neglected since the 1770’s. Glensheil had a parochial
school. There were only two whisky outlets, one being the Sheil Inn stage house on the road from
Fort Augustus. Excess drinking generally occurred only at Martinmas.
Macrae described the people as “frugal, plain, open, sincere,” and skilled in the management of
black cattle [pp 129-30]. Despite the hardships of the climate and lifestyle, there were many
instances of longevity with people living into their 80’s and 90’s. The people of Glensheil and Kintail
were principally Macraes and Maclennans. They were united, but sometimes clannish animosity was
6
aroused. The people had a deep-seated attachment to the Seaforth family. In 1793 the population of
Glensheil was 721. There were 21 people on the parish roll of the real poor, but apparently there
was a “swarm of sturdy beggars” [p.131] who were an annoyance. They were mostly “stout able
women” who could have worked but preferred to go from house to house. A number of farmers had
emigrated to North Carolina in 1769 and 1772. Macrae did not say whether that was due to Highland
Clearances. But he did say [p.128] that in 1786 sheep farmers offered triple rent for the higher parts
of the parish. The owner refused the offer, declaring he “would never prefer sheep to men”, yet at
the same time he let the land to the old inhabitants “on their paying a pretty moderate
augmentation”.
The infamous Highland Clearances began around 1770 and continued for nearly 90 years, the most
intense clearing in 1782-1820 and 1840-1854. Many of the chiefs, or lairds, surviving after Culloden
started to wish for a lifestyle with more luxuries and pleasures. They found that grazing cattle and
sheep brought in a far better income than they gained from thousands of subsistence level tenants,
so they started to increase rents and to not renew tacksmen’s leases. They combined small holdings
into larger ones and leased them as grazing runs to southerners who could afford to pay. More and
more people were evicted and forced to live on the edge of the sea or in bog land, and encouraged
or forced to migrate to North America and later to Australia. Truly dreadful things were done by
factors on behalf of landowners to clear the Highlanders off the Highlands. Harvest failure and
cholera in the 1830’s and potato blight in the late 1840’s added to the picture of misery. Prebble’s
book traces the history and the horrors of this period. It is likely that John McLennan joined the army
because of the Highland Clearances. Recruiters were scattered over England and Scotland (Duncan
vol I, p.170).
John enlisted on 5 November, 1808, aged 20, as a private, a gunner, in the Royal Artillery. He was
assigned to the 6
th
Battalion, in the Company or Troop known as the Sinclairs, and was stationed at
Woolwich, England. See the map showing the Royal Artillery Barracks. John is described as 5’ 9 ½”
tall, of fair complexion with brown hair and grey eyes.
Here John met and married Isabella Noble. The entry in the marriage register of St Alfege Church,
Greenwich (or Charlton), reads “John McLennan, of this Parish, bachelor, and Isabella Noble, of the
same, spinster, were married in this church, this 11
th
November, 1812, by me, George Mathew,
Vicar. Witnesses: John Riddle, Margaret [unreadable].” See the photograph of St Alfege Church in
Greenwich.
Their son Kenneth was born on 21 November 1813 and christened in the Scots Church, Woolwich on
28 November 1813.
The vicar of St Alfege Church in 1986 searched the baptism registers for John and Isabella but found
neither. The 1841 Inverness census confirms that Isabella was born in England but does not give the
place. In 1841 living next door to John and Isabella in Inverness was a couple named William and
Catherine Noble. They were 70 years old, Inverness-shire born, and William was a weaver. It is
probably pure coincidence that Nobles lived next door, but a possibility is that Isabella did have
Scottish parents but, like her own son Kenneth, was born in England with her father in the English
army. The neighbouring Nobles may have been her parents, an uncle or other relative, or no