25
Next day, 19 August, with a steady northwesterly wind the brig made an impressive run
along the south coast of Novaya Zemlya. It passed in turn Bukhta Strogonova, named after a
group of settlers from Novgorod who sought refuge here at or before the time of Barents’s visit
in 1594, Guba Shirochikha, the extensive Guba Chernaya where the Paykacheviye, a group of
Old Believers had settled, and died, in the mid-seventeenth century, and Guba Sakhanina, and
by 7.30 pm was 8 km southwest of Mys Kusoy Nos, the northeastern cape of Karskiye Vorota.
Beyond this to the east lay the Kara Sea.
Litke now had a decision to make. As far as he could see the Kara Sea was free of ice
and this might be his only chance to explore the east coast of Novaya Zemlya.
49
On the other
hand the lack of ice might simply be due to the sustained westerly winds which had been
blowing, and a change of wind might easily blow the ice back again, trapping the brig against
the coast, if he were to take a chance and head north along the east coast. Moreover the season
was quite advanced and his instructions still directed him to survey Ostrov Vaygach, Kanin
Nos and Ostrov Kolgueyv. As fate would have it, however, the decision would be taken out of
his hands.
Somewhat concerned by a change in the colour of the water to a turgid green, despite
the pilots’ assurances that there were no shoals in the area, Litke gave orders that the lead be
cast every 15 minutes, and had started to relax when the depth had increased to 27 m. But just
then the brig ran hard aground. The lead revealed depths of only 5.5 and even 4.6 m. One
impact followed another as the vessel drove across a series or reefs; the rudder was knocked off
its pintles, fragments of the keel floated to the surface and the hull started to leak. Litke had
just given orders to cut down the masts when the pounding ceased – a wave had carried the
brig back into deeper water.
50
Soundings revealed that Novaya Zemlya had struck the summit of a submarine peak or
pinnacle lying 12 km south of Kusoy Nos. Litke named it Banka Prokof’yeva after his
navigation officer – a name which it still retains on the charts. The immediate concern was to
achieve a functioning rudder again. Within 90 minutes the crew had jury-rigged tackles
whereby the rudder could be turned and the immediate danger had passed, although the hull
was still leaking making 12–15 cm per hour, but this the pumps could handle. Clearly,
however, with a seriously weakened vessel any attempt at surveying the east coast of Novaya
Zemlya was now completely out of the question. Litke therefore wisely decided to head back
west towards Kanin Nos.
Throughout the 20
th
and 21
st
the brig was tacking into a westerly wind, and on the
evening of the 21
st
some part of the coast of Novaya Zemlya, identified as Mys Kabaniy Nos,
was briefly visible just before nightfall. On the morning of the 22
nd
the wind swung into the
east and, in superb weather the brig began to run more rapidly westward; its noon position was
70°15′40″N; 54°38′E.
Despite the weakened condition of his vessel Litke was still determined to fulfil his
orders to the extent of at least partially surveying Ostrov Kolguyev. Its low western coast,
extending from southeast to northwest was sighted around 11 am on the 23
rd
. The brig swung
around its north coast, lined by sheer cliffs and Litke was able to take bearings on a number of
conspicuous points, especially its northwestern point whose position he determined to be
69°29′30″N; 48°55′E. He continued his survey southwards along the west coast but wisely
49
ibid, p. 240
50
ibid.
26
stayed clear of the dangerously shoal south coast which ends in the dangerous spits of the
Yuzhnyye Ploshkiye Koshki, which shelter Guba Remenko, the only safe anchorage on the
island.
Around noon on the 24
th
Litke sighted the north coast of Kaninskiy Poluostrov and by 7
pm
Novaya Zemlya had reached the tip of the peninsula. On the basis of his chronometer
readings Litke was able to fix its longitude at 43°16′40″E, just 1′40″ different from the mean of
his readings from previous years. Its actual longitude is 43°17′16″.
Litke’s problems were not over yet, however. Soon after the brig had rounded Kanin
Nos the barometer fell sharply and a southerly gale arose. At 3.30 am on the 25
th
a powerful
wave struck the weakened rudder and it was left hanging solely by the jury-rigged rudder
chains. Another wave swept the brig’s decks and badly injured a crew member who was
washed into the scuppers.
Despite the brig’s violent movements the rudder was hoisted on deck – with great
difficulty – and it was discovered that every one of the pintles had been snapped off. The
solution was to set up a forge on deck where the smith was able to forge new pintles. By 6 pm
the new pintles were attached and the rudder rehung. Litke was particularly impressed by his
men’s performance; although offered a half-hour break for dinner they opted for just a glass of
wine and a biscuit each before going back to work. Lavrov too had made a particularly good
impression; he had directly supervised this extremely difficult and critical operation.
When the wind swung into the northwest on the morning of the 26
th
Litke was able to
take advantage of it to run south through the
gorlo, although the brig was not answering its
helm particularly well. In part because the rudder was now hanging somewhat higher than
previously, and in part due to the loss of much of the keel, it kept yawing quite badly until
some 200 pud (3.25 tons) of cargo had been moved from bow to stern, which improved the
situation.
The wind soon dropped, however and thereafter progress slowed. By 5 pm Novaya
Zemlya was passing Mys Gorodetskiy, and next day Mys Orlovskiy, but it was not until the
evening of 30 August that the brig crossed the bar into the Severnaya Dvina, where it dropped
anchor for the night off Ostrov Lebedin. Next morning it ran up the river to Arkhangel’sk.
51
On 14 September Novaya Zemlya was moved to Solombala where it was careened.
Litke was really shocked at the damage which was revealed, and amazed that his ship had
survived. The forefoot was splintered, with the splinters sticking out like a fan. The after part
of the keel was missing completely and the sternpost shattered, while in some places sections
of the hull planking were missing so that the frames were visible. Litke was amazed that his
vessel had not been leaking more.
As usual he stayed in Arkhangel’sk, putting his journal in order and working on his
maps until the winter road was established, and then set off home to St Petersburg.
Fourth expedition 1824
Particularly in view of his report of having glimpsed an ice-free Kara Sea, just before Novaya
Zemlya ran aground, the Admiralty decided to make one further attempt to complete the survey
of the east coast of the islands, and again entrusted this task to Litke. As a guide, he was
instructed to continue his survey from Mys Nassau to Mys Zhelaniya and from there, if
51
ibid, p. 246.