16
For four days the brig sailed northeast across the Barents Sea without incident but on
the evening of 6 August she ran into thick, wet fog. Soon after noon on the 7
th
the wind died
but a south wind sprang up soon after midnight. The lead gave a depth of 55 metres, indicating
that the coast of Novaya Zemlya must be near, but with visibility reduced to zero, Litke
prudently hove-to. Soon after 5 am the fog cleared and the coast of Novaya Zemlya emerged –
the easily identifiable summit of Gora Pervousmotrennaya and to the south of it Guba
Bezymyannaya, both positively identified by Smirennikov, again on board as local pilot. The
brig swung north, and just beyond Gora Pervousmotrennaya Smirennikov also recognized
Guba Gribovaya. Just to make sure, since he had had no observations for several days, and this
inlet bore some resemblance to the entrance to Matochkin Shar, Litke sent Lavrov in shore to
check that it was not the strait itself.
Litke’s noon observation on the 8
th
gave a latitude of 73°6′N, alerting him to the fact
that the entrance to Matochkin Shar must be close. Around 4 pm the small, white Ostrov
Pan’kov, barely more than an isolated rock, came into view; Smirennikov, who had spent a
year on it delightedly recognized his old home. Litke now discovered that not only
17
Rozmyslov’s determination of the latitude for the entrance to Matochkin Shar (73°40′N) but
also his own determination from the previous year was incorrect; he now established its
latitude to be 73°20′.
34
Shortly thereafter low Ostrov Mityushev and Mys Serebryanka hove
into view to the north, i.e. they were definitely off the mouth of the elusive strait. But at this
critical moment the wind died, and then rose out of the east. Even worse, the fog rolled in, the
barometer was dropping and, afraid of being caught in a storm Litke decided to postpone
further investigation of the strait and, instead, to explore the coast further north.
Ghosting along with a light breeze, by 5 am on the 9
th
the brig was passing Mys Sukhoy
Nos. Then the wind started to strengthen, fortunately offshore, and by 8 am having passed a
bay which Litke named Guba Sofronova after his navigation officer, the brig was abeam of
Mys Lavrova. Next, having crossed Zaliv Mel’kiy, Litke named its northern cape Mys Litke
after his brother Mishman Litke. By 11 am they were off the mouth of Krestovaya Guba. Litke
named the small island some distance up that inlet Ostrov Vrangelya after his friend and
fellow-officer Ferdinand Petrovich Vrangel, then engaged in surveying the shores of the East
Siberian Sea, and the northern cape of the bay Mys Prokof’yev after his second navigation
officer.
In the afternoon, with a strong offshore wind the brig made excellent speed northwards
past the mouths of the two bays of Guba Yuzhnaya Sel’meneva and Guba Severnaya
Sel’meneva, named in honour of a distinguished naval captain of that name, and, beyond them
Guba Mashigin, By 6 pm Novaya Zemlya had reached the most northerly point which it had
attained the previous year. Ahead lay what appeared to be a long, low island, which Barents
had named Admiralty Island. In fact it is a peninsula, now Poluostrov Admiral’teystva. As the
brig approached it the depth suddenly decreased to 18 and then 13 metres and Litke swung
west-southwest out of danger.
This is almost certainly where the British frigate Speedwell, captain John Wood, while
attempting a transit of the Northeast Passage accompanied by the pink Prosperous, captain
William Flawes, was wrecked in June 1676.
35
With the exception of two of his men Wood and
all his men got ashore safely and were rescued by
Prosperous soon afterwards. This event is
commemorated in the name of the cape, Mys Spidvel, at the southern end of the peninsula.
Litke continued to follow the coast northeastwards, still in open water. A noon sun-shot
on the 10
th
gave a latitude of 75°49′N, at which point the brig was abeam of Ostrov Vilyam
(Barents’s Wilhelm Island) and shortly afterwards abeam of long, narrow Ostrov Berkha.
Beyond it, at 6 pm Litke spotted four islands, on the most northwesterly of which were two
crosses. These were the Ostrova Krestovyye lying off Zaliv Sedova (in an embayment of
which, Bukhta Foki, Georgiy Sedov would winter on board Sv. Foka in 1912–13). Beyond
them Like spotted what he thought was an extensive peninsula, Poluostrov Pankrat’yeva
(although the western part is in fact an island, now Ostrov Pankrat’yeva). Throughout the day
the brig was passing large numbers of relatively small ice floes and bergs, one of the latter
being 12 m high and 180 m in circumference.
By 7 am on the 11
th
Novaya Zemlya was passing two long islands lying quite close
inshore (although they appeared to Litke as three islands) and just beyond them a sheer-sided,
snow-covered cape beyond which the coast swung southeast. Litke assumed that the islands
were the Oranskiye Ostrova and the cape Mys Zhelaniya, the northern tip of Novaya Zemlya,
34
ibid, p. 181.
35
ibid, pp. 64-5; Barrow, A chronological history, pp. 261-70.
18
and before the end of the day he would be in the Kara Sea. In fact the islands were the Ostrova
Barentsa and the cape Mys Nassau. Soon, however ice floes again began to appear and to make
matters worse thick fog rolled in. Around noon, through the fog the noise of jostling ice floes
could be heard to east, north and west and Litke cautiously hove-to. He spent the rest of the day
tacking in fog, tacking each time the noise of the ice became menacingly loud or the depths
decreased dangerously. When the fog lifted at 3 am on the 13
th
Litke could see the edge of the
solid pack ice extending continually from northwest to southeast, to where it butted against the
coast. His dream of rounding Mys Zhelaniya into the Kara Sea was shattered. He had no option
but to return south.
Fog and a period of calms, followed by foul winds, meant that he made only slow
progress until noon on the 15
th
, but thereafter progress improved. Soon after noon on the 16
th
the brig was rounding Sukhoy Nos and heading for Ostrov Mityushev. As he approached it
Litke spotted the elusive entrance to Matochkin Shar, but by 6 pm fog had obscured it again.
By dawn on the 17
th
the fog had cleared and the brig ran into the mouth of the strait. By 7 am it
was abeam of Mys Stolbovoy, the southern entrance cape, and soon afterwards passing Mys
Matochkiniy, and dropped anchor off Baran’iy Mys.
36
Along with Sofronov, Smirennikov, Prokof’ev and his brother Aleksandr Petrovich,
Litke went ashore at Staroverskoye, an abandoned settlement at the mouth of the Matochka
Rechka, despite some difficulties due to the heavy surf. They investigated a semi-collapsed hut
and an extensive range of tubs, spades, reindeer antlers and beluga nets which lay scattered
around. Near the shore lay five overturned boats, left here by trappers/sealers in anticipation of
using them again in a future season. A party of hunters also went ashore but had no luck.
On the following day (18
th
) the sun showed itself briefly through the clouds, allowing
Litke to get some sun-shots. He determined his latitude to be 73°17′N; in fact it was
73°14′24″N. Some of the officers crossed to the north shore to hunt, but with no better luck.
While ashore they erected a cross to mark their visit.
Litke now contemplated his further plans. Despite his instructions to send two oared
boats through Matochkin Shar with orders toexplore the Kara Sea coast north and south from
the eastern entrance of the strait, he decided not to pursue this course. Given the late date the
boats would not have enough time to survey any significant stretches of the Kara Sea coast
before they would have to turn back. Litke therefore decided that the remainder of the season
could be better utilized in surveying the south coast of Novaya Zemlya and Ostrov Vaygach.
37
After making notes on sailing directions for entering the strait and on potential anchorages,
Litke was all ready to set off southwards, but a flat calm and dense fog held him captive for
two days.
Finally, on the morning of the 21
st
a light east wind allowed the brig to get under way,
but was soon again becalmed and surrounded by fog again. The fog cleared around 4 pm and
the crew began the laborious process of warping ahead, but this was interrupted when a walrus
surfaced just ahead of the bows. It was shot then, after some difficulty, harpooned. It was
evidently a young animal but even so it weighed over 20 pud (327.6 kg) and it yielded about
100 kg of blubber.
Even after reaching the open sea Novaya Zemlya was bedeviled by persistent calms. It
was not until midnight on the 23
rd
/24
th
that a southeasterly wind sprang up and allowed it to
36
Litke, Chetyrekhkratnoye puteshestviye, p. 186.
37
ibid.