bare root roses. The hole should be as wide as described
above, but the finished depth of the hole should be no deeper
than the height of the container so that the soil ball sits on firm
soil and will not sink into the hole after watering. Loosen the
soil ball from the sides of the pot by rolling the container on
its sides and gently compressing the soil ball. Ease the plant
out without damaging the main stem or canes or stretching
the stems and roots apart. If the plant is root-bound, you may
need to cut the pot to remove the soil ball. Inspect the soil ball
for root health before planting. Ideally, the soil ball should
have a network of healthy roots showing on the surface and
holding the soil mass together. Blackened, dead roots or rot-
ting, saturated potting media are not indicators of good plant
viability. Roses with masses of circling roots may have trouble
getting established. You may be able to correct the problem
by unwrapping or cutting away at least the surface roots be-
fore planting. This may seem drastic, but do not be afraid to
do it. Roots will grow back if they are healthy. Loosen or
rough up the outer surface of the soil ball to be sure that the
roots come in good contact with the soil. Place in the hole so
that the top of the soil ball is slightly higher than the sur-
rounding soil level, then backfill until the soil ball is com-
pletely covered, firming the soil with hand pressure only.
Mulch exposed soil and water thoroughly as described above
so that the backfilled soil and soil ball are evenly moist and
settled.
Mulches can be a real help.
Roses establish better when the soil surface is covered with
mulch. Mulches keep the soil surface from drying out, insu-
late the ground from temperature fluctuations and reduce
weeds. Mulches may be organic or inorganic. Pinestraw,
shredded hardwood or pinebark mulches are commonly
available and work well with roses. Maintain a depth of 2 to
3 inches and do not pile mulch up around the base of the
plant.
Water your roses regularly just after planting.
Roses need evenly moist soil, especially when first planted.
Roses generally need one inch of water a week if it does not
rain. They should be able to handle a little less water after the
plant becomes well established, but watch for stress under
drought conditions. Water deeply so the root zone gets com-
pletely moist. A drip system can be a real time and water
saver if you put it on a timer. A drip system also keeps the fo-
liage dry, which helps reduce disease levels. Water rose shrubs
in the morning so the foliage can dry before evening if you
water by hand or by overhead sprayers.
There are so many fertilizers. What do I do?
Decisions about fertilizing are easier if you continue to take a
soil test every year or two, preferably in the fall. Then you can
make a fertility plan based on real data that you track over
the years. The reports tell you what fertilizers or amendments
are needed and when to apply. Their recommendations list
commonly available fertilizers that you can use as a baseline.
There are many different fertilizers on the market, some for-
mulated just for roses. There are also specialty products that
correct specific deficits, such as iron or micronutrients. Costs
can be very different from one product to another. Read the
labels carefully. For more information on soil tests, see
http://msucares.com/crops/soils/testing.html
.
Consider if you want a fast action fertilizer or a slow-release
fertilizer. You can get complete fertilizers that contain nitro-
gen, phosphorus and potassium, or you can get single-nutri-
ent formulas if your soil needs only one nutrient.
There is also the option of using organic fertilizers. These
come in many forms, but they often are used for reasons other
than fertility. Nutrient levels in organic fertilizers are not as
predictable as those in standard fertilizers. They may be avail-
able locally in bulk forms, such as composted manures or mu-
nicipal composts, for a small cost or free. Some organic
fertilizers have desirable soil building properties.
Fertilizer sources and amounts depend ultimately on the con-
dition of the soil and your objectives in growing roses. You
have met your basic goals if the plants are healthy. Over fer-
tilizing can lead to pests, diseases, poor bloom and environ-
mental problems.
Fertilization recommendations vary by the type of fertilizer
used, the method of application, the condition and type of
roses and the objectives of the gardener. Fast release or liquid
fertilizers may need to be applied in small amounts on a more
FERTILIZING QUICK TIPS:
•
Get a soil test
•
Keep a garden journal
•
Watch for deficiency signs
•
Fertilize during growth, approx. 6-8
weeks apart
•
1 lb N/1000 square feet/application
•
Start mid-March
•
End mid-August/early Sept.
•
Water fertilizers in
•
Adapt applications according to type of
fertilizer.
•
Read labels before use
21
frequent schedule. Slow-release fertilizers may be applied
only a couple of times per year. Established landscape roses
may need little to no fertilizer if the soil is in good condition.
Roses in containers where leaching is high and roses grown
under strict regimes for maximum bloom production may
need much more fertilizer per year than average conditions.
Sometimes roses are said to be heavy feeders, but that may
be due to how they are being grown if high quality, maximum
bloom is the objective. General recommendations for shrubs
are to fertilize every six to eight weeks with one pound of ni-
trogen per 1000 square feet per application.
Composts and organic fertilizers release nutrients slowly, so
they can be applied just before leafing-out. In general, fertilize
after plants initiate growth. Fertilizing in early spring while
the plant is still dormant wastes nutrients that simply leach
through unresponsive roots. To avoid frost-prone late season
growth, do not fertilize plants after early September. Apply
fertilizers to moist soil of unstressed roses; water if necessary
before applying. Fertilizers should be watered into the soil
immediately after they are applied.
For more information on fertility issues, visit the
MSUCares.com website and see “A Quick Guide to fertiliz-
ing Mississippi landscapes”, “nitrogen fertilization of
Mississippi landscape trees and Shrubs”, and “Diagnos-
ing nutrient Deficiencies in ornamental plants”
.
To prune or not to prune? That is the question.
Most garden roses need some pruning to perform their best
in gardens and landscapes. The need to prune varies greatly
from class to class. Some old
garden roses, like China roses,
respond poorly to heavy prun-
ing, while hybrid tea bushes
need moderate to severe annual
spring pruning.
Most roses come ready to plant
and do not need to be pruned
much. Examine the canes care-
fully for breakage or any signs
of disease, which should be
trimmed out at the time of
planting. Canes should be cut at
an angle approximately one-
fourth inch above an outward-
facing node. To prevent a delay
in flowering, do not cut canes
shorter than ten inches.
The major annual pruning for
most repeat-blooming cultivars
should occur each year between
mid-February and mid-March,
when the roses are still dormant
but winter’s worst weather is
past. Pruning roses is not difficult, but it does require clean,
sharp tools and protective gloves and clothing. Wipe your
tools with a disinfectant, such as a ten percent bleach solution,
bleach wipes, or alcohol, between diseased cuts and especially
between plants. Spring pruning allows the gardener to eval-
uate the condition, shape and size of a rose bush and prepare
it to serve the purpose for which it was planted. The degree
of pruning depends on the gardener’s goals for that plant and
its physical condition. The objective at the end of pruning is
to have a shrub free of dead, diseased and weak growth, leav-
ing healthy canes and an open, pleasing form prepared to
support vigorous new growth.
For more information on disinfectants, go to the MSUCares
website and search for “choosing a Disinfectant for tools
and Surfaces in horticultural operations”
.
Hybrid teas, grandifloras, and many larger floribundas re-
spond positively to heavy annual pruning and are pruned
similarly. First, remove all dead or diseased-looking wood.
Then cut out all the weak canes and any branches that are
growing toward the center of the bush. For hybrid teas and
grandifloras, select three to six strong canes and cut them back
to a height of 12 to 18 inches. Roses grafted to R. x fortuniana
rootstock are normally larger shrubs and should be pruned
less, leaving more canes and keeping the final height to about
PRUNING QUICK TIPS:
•
Identify the type of pruning best for the rose
class. Get a game plan in mind.
•
Do heavy pruning mid-February to mid-March
for repeat bloomers. Prune after bloom for
spring bloomers.
•
Use sharp, clean tools and disinfect between
cuts and plants.
•
Wear protective clothing/gloves.
•
Prune out dead/diseased wood.
•
Prune to open plant up for air circulation, fit
space, and reduce disease.
•
Deadhead, shape and clean most roses to
promote flowering and reduce disease
22
Rose bush before pruning
Same bush after pruning; all
dead wood and weak
growth removed, and canes
cut to a uniform height.