Fashion and design

FASHION & JEWELLERY

72 ARAKI, Nobuyoshi. Yoshiki Hishinuma. 100 Flowers; 100 Butterflies. Tokyo, Kodansha International, 2000.

Folio. 122pp. Lavishly illustrated in colour. One black and white illustration. Illustrated endpapers. Printed card covers. Dust-jacket.

100 clothing designs by Yoshiki Hishinuma modelled by 100 Tokyo girls and photographed by Nobuyoshi Araki. Text in Japanese and English.
73 BHANDARI,Vandana. Costume, Textiles and Jewellery of India. Traditions in Rajasthan. London, Mercury Books, 2005.

Folio. 216pp. Lavishly illustrated, principally in colour. Dust-jacket.

'Costume, Textiles and Jewellery of India' is a detailed study of the complex role played by clothing and ornamentation in Indian society. It focuses on the state of Rajasthan, one of India’s most celebrated and historically rich regions. Compiled over more than fifteen years of research, this fascinating volume explores how Indian costume reflects the wearer's marital status, occupation, seasonal changes and religious commitment, serving as an essential symbol of their identity and ancestry.
74 BOSSAN, Marie-Josèphe. The Art of the Shoe. Hoo, Grange Books, 2007.

Folio. 256pp. Coloured frontispiece. Lavishly illustrated in colour. Dust-jacket.

The history of the shoe is both vast and enthralling. The author supports her analysis with an outstanding iconography and gives these commonplace objects a universal quality that sheds light on the whole of civilization and elevates them to the rank of works of art.
75 DEUTCH, Yvonne. A Glimpse of Stocking : A Short History of Stockings. London, Michael O'Mara Books Limited, 2002.

8vo. 64pp. Illustrations, some coloured. Illustrated boards.

The author charts the history of stockings as a fashion item and considers their erotic appeal.
76 DOLCE & GABBANA. Animal. New York, Abbeville Press, 1998.

8vo. 160pp. Lavishly illustrated in colour. Patterned boards.

Annie Liebovitz, Steven Meisel, Helmut Newton, and Bruce Weber are just a few of the photographers whose shots of stars and models illustrate the animal patterns of these witty and ironic designers.
77 ELLIS, Sean. 365 : A Year in Fashion. London, Vision On, 2003.

4to. 344pp. Lavishly illustrated in colour and black and white. White boards.

A fashion photographer chronicles every day during 1999. These images are the result.
78 EPSTEIN, Diana & SAFRO, Millicent. Buttons. Foreword by Jim Dine. Preface by Tom Wolfe. Photography by John Parnell. New York, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1991.

Small 4to. 176pp. Coloured frontispiece. Profusely illustrated in colour. Paperback.

A monograph that presents more than 1000 examples of the art of button-making. Includes examples of buttons from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries made from a variety of materials: glass, porcelain, pearl, gold, silver and brass. The text provides scholarly information on the history of button design and production, as well as a detailed caption for each button that describes it and gives its date, provenance and method of creation.
79 ETTINGER, Roseann. 50s Popular Fashion for Men, Women, Boys and Girls. With Price Guide. Atglen, Schiffer Publishing, 1995.

8vo. 160pp. Profusely illustrated in colour. Paperback.

A well-illustrated collection of examples of everyday fashions, taken from the 1950s.
80 EWING, William A. & BRANDOW, Todd. Edward Steichen : In High Fashion. The Condé Nast Years 1923-1937. With Essays by Tobia Bezzola, William A. Ewing, Nathalie Herschdorfer and Carol Squiers. With 245 Photographs. London, Thames & Hudson, 2008.

Large 4to. 288pp. Portrait frontispiece. Lavishly illustrated in black and white. Two colour illustrations in the text. Dust-jacket.

The most extensive collection of Steichen's legendary Vogue and Vanity Fair work ever brought to the public. Edward Steichen was already a famous painter and photographer in America and abroad when, in early 1923, he was offered the most prestigious position in photography's commercial domain: that of chief photographer for Vogue and Vanity Fair. Over the next fifteen years, Steichen would produce a body of work of unequalled
brilliance, dramatising and glamorising contemporary culture and its achievers in politics, literature, film, sport, dance, theatre, opera, and the world of high fashion. Here are iconic images of Gloria Swanson, Gary Cooper, Greta Garbo, and Charlie Chaplin as well as numerous other celebrities drawn from an archive of more than two thousand original prints. Until now, no more than a handful have been exhibited or published in book form. The photographs of the 1920s and 1930s represent the high point in Steichen's career, and the work he did for Condé Nast's magazines are among the most striking creations of twentieth-century photography.
81 GREGORIETTI, Guido. Jewelry Through the Ages. Foreword by Erich Steingräber. Translated from the Italian by Helen Lawrence. London, Paul Hamlyn, 1970.

4to. 319pp. Lavishly illustrated in colour and black and white. Dust-jacket.

A famous Italian art historian examines the recorded history of jewellery, which goes back 40,000 years.
82 HALL, Zoe Dare. [Introduction.] The Art of Barbie. London, Vision On, 2000.

4to. 111pp. Profusely illustrated in colour. Paperback.

Features over 70 shoots of the renowned doll Barbie wearing specially created outfits, with original contributions from the world's top designers, photographers and artists, including: Alexander McQueen, Versace, Prada and David Bailey. Introduction by Elton John and Victoria Beckham. All of Mattel's licensing royalties made from the sale of this commemorative book went to the Elton John Aids Foundation.
83 HARGREAVES, Kim. The Kim Hargreaves Collection. A Rowan Original. Foreword by Kaffe Fassett. New York, Macmillan Publishing Company, 1991.

4to. 144pp. Coloured frontispiece. Profusely illustrated in colour. Patterns. Dust-jacket.

Includes thirty previously unpublished patterns with both practical instructions and patterns. Designs range from rugged, traditional Aran sweaters to Paisleys, cardigans and beaded evening wear for men, women and children.
84 HARRISON, Martin. [Editor.] Fashion Faces Up : Photographs and Words from the World of Fashion. Göttingen, Steidl, 2000.

Gilda's Club Limited Edition, No. 426 of 1000 copies. Folio. 214pp. Frontispiece. Lavishly illustrated in colour and black and white. Cloth-backed illustrated boards. Slip case.

Most of the photographs presented are recent, and accumulate into an overview of contemporary ingenuity at the beginning of the new millennium. There are, though, exceptions to this: works by established masters who inspired and elevated the profession of fashion photography, ranging from Horst P. Horst and Norman Parkinson to Richard Avedon, Jeanloup Sieff, and Helmut Newton.

85 HART, Avril & NORTH, Susan. Historical Fashion in Detail : The 17th and 18th Centuries. Photographs by Richard Davis. Drawings by Leonie Davis. London, V & A Publications, 2007.

4to. 223pp. Coloured frontispiece. Lavishly illustrated in colour and black and white. Paperback.

A work that presents historical costume and textile history, from cut and construction to fabrics and trimmings. It also offers the opportunity to see fragile clothes in detail. Perfection is in the detail: decorative seams, exquisite stitching, knife-sharp pleats and voluptuous drapery feature alongside more usual techniques such as stamping, pinking and slashing.
86 IMAN & others. I am Iman. Foreword by David Bowie. Contributions by Peter Beard, Sandra Bernhard, Bethann Hardison, Bell Books, Fran Lebowitz, Isaac Mizrahi, Isabella Rossellini and Ingrid Sischy. London, Booth-Clibborn Editions,

4to. 168pp. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Dust-jacket.

Iman is the legendary African-born supermodel, cosmetic mogul and wife of David Bowie. Includes the most famous photographs of Iman by classic image-makers with text by contributors chosen by Iman herself, as well as her own account of her early life in Africa and her rise to fame.
87 INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS NETWORK. IdN Special 01 : Imagemakers. Hong Kong, Systems Design Limited, 2002.

4to. 170pp. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. CD-ROM. Paperback.

Solve Sundsbo, Mike Mills, Double X Workshop (Eric Cot), Fabien Baron, Gina Garan, Nick Knight, Sam Wong and many more agreed to share their knowledge of how to create an image with impact.
88 JEFFERSON, Louise E. The Decorative Arts of Africa. London, Collins, 1974.

4to. 191pp. Frontispiece map. Numerous illustrations, some coloured. Maps. With the book label: 'From the Apartment of HRH The Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon 1930-2002'. Dust-jacket.

A well-illustrated reference work that includes symbols, dress, costume, hair styles and body decoration as well as carving, basketry, metalwork and beadwork.
89 KNIGHT, Nick & NAKAHARA, Satoko. Nicknight. Produced and Directed by Marc Ascoli, Nick Knight and Peter Saville. Munich, Schirmer/Mosel, 1994/2000.

Folio. 160pp. Lavishly illustrated in colour and black and white. Purple suede.

Nick Knight is a British photographer who is known for his personal, experimental vision, resulting in work that exists outside the conventions of fashion photography. This catalogue is a testament to Knight's most consistent thread: to find beauty and elegance in the world and present it to the viewer in such a way that they can only choose to accept its existence.
90 KYTE, Dennis. The Botanical Footwear of Dennis Kyte. Foreword by Dodie Kazanjian. New York, Smithmark Publishers, 1998.

Oblong 4to. 175pp. Profusely illustrated in colour. Pictorial boards.

An imaginative exploration of fanciful footwear.
91 LAVER, James. Taste and Fashion from the French Revolution to the Present Day. New and Revised Edition. With a Chapter on Fashion and the Second World War and Twelve New Illustrations in Colour. London, George G. Harrap and Company Ltd., 1946.

8vo. 232pp. Frontispiece. 12pp. coloured illustrations. Black and white illustrations. Blue cloth.

A study of the last 150 years of fashion that includes its main sociological tendencies, arranged in chronological order followed by specific items and how they have developed.
92 McMULLAN, Patrick. Glamour Girls. New York, PMc Publishing, 2007.

Folio. 317pp. Lavishly illustrated in colour. Illustrated endpapers. Pictorial boards.

Celebrated photographer Patrick McMullan captures everything from the sophisticated galas of New York society to the parties of young Hollywood stars. With an Introduction by Amy Fine Collins and with Commentary by Candace Bushnell, Dominick Dunne, Tom Ford, Aileen Mehle, Rex Reed, Jeff Slonim and Liz Smith.
93 MALOSSI, Giannino. [Editor.] Material Man : Masculinity, Sexuality, Style. New York, Harry N. Abrams, 2000.

4to. 199pp. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Paperback.

Articles describe how the mass media, advertising, the arts, the fashion industry, and other forces change the way men view what it means to be masculine.
94 ONASSIS, Jacqueline. [Editor.] In the Russian Style. With the Cooperation of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Introduction by Audrey Kennett. Designed by Bryan Holme. New York, The Viking Press, 1976.

4to. 184pp. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Dust-jacket.

The possessions of the Russian sovereigns of the 18th and 19th centuries, including their clothes, palaces and furnishings, jewels and objets d'art, are finely illustrated. Quotations from Catherine the Great, the Marquis de Custine, Gogol, Pushkin, Tolstoy and others provide an accompaniment to the illustrations.
95 PEACOCK, John. Men's Fashion : The Complete Sourcebook. With Over 1000 Colour Illustrations. London, Thames and Hudson, 1996.

8vo. 216pp. Frontispiece. Profusely illustrated in colour. Dust-jacket.

A comprehensive record of male fashion from the French Revolution to the present day, covering every area of clothing and appearance: day wear, court and evening wear, leisure and sports wear, underwear, knitwear, accessories and hairstyles.
96 PEDERSEN, B. Martin. [Editor.] An International Collection of the Best of T-Shirt Design. Graphis T-Shirt 1. Zurich, Graphis Press Corp., 1994.

4to. 216pp. Coloured frontispiece. Profusely illustrated in colour. Dust-jacket.

A wide range of different T-shirt designs exhibited on models, designers, their clients and others. With a commentary by Paul Kalkbrenner. The text is in English, French and German.
97 PEDERSEN, B. Martin. [Editor.] An International Collection of the Best of T-Shirt Design. Graphis T-Shirt 2. New York, Graphis Inc., 1998.

Narrow 4to. 224pp. Coloured frontispiece. Profusely illustrated in colour. Dust-jacket.

A wide range of different promotional T-shirt designs produced for clients in a variety of industries and others. With a commentary by Mike Hicks. The text is in English, French and German.
98 PRIOR, Katherine & ADAMSON, John. Maharajas' Jewels. Paris, Assouline, 2000.

Folio. 208pp. Lavishly illustrated in colour and black and white. Map. Dust-jacket.

A finely-illustrated narrative traces the rise and fall of India's leading royal houses through the dramatic fortunes of their crown jewels, from the Mughal empire in the fifteenth century to the extinction of the monarchy in India four hundred years later.
99 RIBEIRO, Aileen. The Gallery of Fashion. Foreword by Sir Roy Strong. London, National Portrait Gallery, 2000.

8vo. 256pp. Portait frontispiece. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Dust-jacket.

The author, a renowned authority on the subject, focuses on costume rather than art history, providing a visual overview of the past five centuries of fashion.
100 SIGSWORTH, Eric M. Montague Burton : A Tailor of Taste. Manchester and New York, Manchester University Press, 1990.

8vo. 171pp. Portrait frontispiece. Illustrations. Dust-jacket.

A biography of Sir Montague Maurice Burton, 1885-1952, who founded Burton, one of Great Britain's largest chains of men's clothing shops.
101 THOMAS, Steven & TURNER, Alwyn W. Big Biba : Inside the Most Beautiful Store in the World. Woodbridge, Antique Collectors' Club, 2006.

Tall 4to. 80pp. 16pp. reproduction of a newspaper handed out to customers on Big Biba's opening day. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Illustrated endpapers. Dust-jacket.

Barbara Hulanicki's legendary Biba store in London was a shop like no other, before or since. This work documents the transformation of the original Derry and Toms building into the 'Superstore Boutique'. It is illustrated floor by floor, showing the products for each department, from food to fashion, and from bathrooms to the legendary 'Rainbow Room'. Big Biba lasted just two years before it fell victim to recession. The business, which had begun by producing garments to be sold by mail order, had grown in less than a decade to become a seven-storey department store filled with own-brand products throughout.
102 TOTH, Mike & D'AMATO, Jennie. Fashion Icon : The Power and Influence of Graphic Design. Gloucester, Rockport Publishers, 2003.

Small 4to. 176pp. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Dust-jacket.

This volume presents a diverse portfolio of innovative design work inspired by cutting-edge fashion trends. It features fashion examples from print advertising (magazines), retail space (store displays), packaging (boxes and bags) and more. Each photograph is accompanied by a description of materials used in the design and sidebar features explore the role of industry players such as art directors, photographers, models, magazine editors and stylists.
103 WATKINS, Charmian. The Clothes Book. London, Dorling Kindersley, 1984.

Small 4to. 160pp. Coloured frontispiece. Coloured illustrations. Diagrams. Patterns, some loosely inserted in flap on inside of back cover. Dust-jacket.

A complete designer wardrobe to make at home.
104 WAUGH, Norah. The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930. With Line Diagrams by Margaret Woodward. London, Faber and Faber Limited, 1968.

Small 4to. 336pp. Coloured portrait frontispiece. Illustrations. Cutting diagrams and tailors' patterns. Pink cloth.

This is a vivid record, in words, illustrations and working diagrams, of a section of women's clothing design from 1600 to 1930. The author was in charge of costume at the Theatre Studio run by Michel Saint-Denis in the 1930s.
105 YOHANNAN, Kohle. John Rawlings : 30 Years in Vogue. Santa Fe, Arena Editions, 2001.

Folio. 267pp. Portrait frontispiece. Lavishly illustrated in colour and black and white. Illustrated endpapers. Dust-jacket.

John Rawlings, 1912-1970, was one of the most prolific photographers of the twentieth century, with more than 200 Vogue and Glamour covers to his credit.
FURNITURE & WOODWORK

THE INFLUENTIAL DESIGNS OF RENOWNED FURNITURE-MAKERS

106 BELL, J. Munro. The Furniture Designs of Chippendale, Hepplewhite and Sheraton. With an Introduction and Critical Estimate by Arthur Hayden and an Essay by Charles Messer Stow. New York, Tudor Publishing Company, 1940.

4to. 300pp [approx]. Profusely illustrated. Cream and maroon patterned cloth.

This work is presented in three sections and consists of replicas of original furniture designs. Thomas Chippendale's 'The Gentleman and the Cabinet Maker's Director', first published in 1754, George Hepplewhite's 'The Cabinet Maker and the Upholsterer’s Guide' published posthumously in 1788 and Thomas Sheraton's ‘The Cabinet-Maker and Upholsterer's Drawing-Book' issued in 1791.
107 BRIDGE, Mark. An Encyclopedia of Desks. London, The Apple Press, 1988.

4to. 127pp. Numerous coloured illustrations. Occasional black and white illustrations. Diagrams. Chart. Dust-jacket.

A well-illustrated reference work that presents a unique combination of design and history.
108 COMINO, Mary. Gimson and the Barnsleys : 'Wonderful furniture of a commonplace kind'. London, Evans Brothers Limited, 1980.

8vo. 223pp. Numerous illustrations. Dust-jacket.

An account of three artistically brilliant and unfailingly honest contributors to the British Arts and Crafts movement. Ernest Gimson and Ernest and Sydney Barnsley were architects and artists who were profoundly influenced by the work and philosophies of William Morris and were nurtured by the contemporary atmosphere of the Cotswolds.
109 FASTNEDGE, Ralph. Sheraton Furniture. Woodbridge, Antique Collectors' Club, 1983.

4to. 224pp. Coloured frontispiece. Numerous illustrations, some coloured. Dust-jacket.

A detailed examination of the various designs put forward by 18th-century furniture designer Thomas Sheraton, 1751-1806. The author places them in perspective against the work of other designers, including Shearer and Hepplewhite.
110 GRANDJEAN, Serge. Empire Furniture, 1800 to 1825. London, Faber and Faber, 1966.

8vo. 120pp. Coloured frontispiece. Three coloured illustrations. 96pp. illustrations. Embossed library stamp on title-page and front free-endpaper. Dust-jacket.

A study of 17th-century French furniture from the time of Napoleon Bonaparte. French furniture styles have had a profound influence on European and American furniture, especially that produced during the first part of the 19th century.
111 HARRIS, Nathaniel. Chippendale. Secaucus, Chartwell Books Inc., 1989.

Small 4to. 128pp. Coloured frontispiece. Numerous coloured and black and white illustrations. Dust-jacket.

A monograph on Thomas Chippendale, 1718-1779. a name synonymous with the finest English period furniture.
112 HEPPLEWHITE, George. The Cabinet-Maker Upholsterer's Guide. The Third Edition of 1794. With a New Introduction by Joseph Aronson. New York, Dover Publications, Inc., 1969.

8vo. 24pp. 128pp. illustrations and a plan. Paperback.

George Hepplewhite, c1727-1786, was a cabinet and chair maker. He was one of the 'big three' English furniture makers of the 18th century, along with Thomas Sheraton and Thomas Chippendale. There are no pieces of furniture made by Hepplewhite or his firm known to exist but he gave his name to a distinctive style of light, elegant furniture that was fashionable between about 1775 and 1800. In 1788, after Hepplewhite's death, his wife, Alice, published 'The Cabinet Maker and Upholsterer’s Guide'. It contained about 300 of his designs and became enormously influential in guiding the style and construction of furniture everywhere. An unabridged and unaltered republication of the third (1794) edition with a new introduction that has been written by Joseph Aronson.

113 INNES, Jocasta & WALTON, Stewart. The Complete Painted Furniture Manual. London, Conran Octopus, 1993.

4to. 160pp. Profusely illustrated in colour. Over 50 black and white patterns. Ownership inscription on front free-endpaper. Dust-jacket.

An inspiring guide to the decorative painting of furniture, that also offers useful practical information.
114 KENNEY, John Tarrant. The Hitchcock Chair. The Story of a Connecticut Yankee – L. Hitchcock of Hitchcocks-ville – and an Account of the Restoration of His 19th-Century Manufactory. New York, Clarkson N. Potter, Inc., 1971.

4to. 339pp. Coloured frontispiece. Numerous illustrations, some coloured. Gift inscription on half-title. Paperback.

Lambert Hitchcock, 1795-1852, was an American furniture manufacturer, famous for designing and mass-producing the Hitchcock Chair. A survey of Hitchcock's 19th century-chairs and other furniture, that covers the rise and fall of his factory. In 1946, the author came upon the abandoned Hitchcock Chair factory while fishing on the Farmington River. He wrote this monograph and started a new Hitchcock Chair Company in the same location. That business lasted until 2006, when it was forced to close due to competition from low-cost overseas furniture manufacturers.
115 NICKERSON, David. English Furniture. London, Octopus Books, 1973.

8vo. 96pp. Numerous coloured and black and white illustrations. Dust-jacket.

During the eighteenth century English craftsmen such as William Kent, Robert Adam, Thomas Chippendale, Thomas Sheraton and George Hepplewhite made a great contribution to the design of furniture.
116 ODA, Noritsugu. Danish Chairs. San Francisco, Chronicle Books, 1999.

4to. 224pp. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Paperback.

Includes a brief history of modern Danish furniture design.
117 PAYNE, Christopher. 19th Century European Furniture (excluding British). Woodbridge, Antique Collectors' Club, 1989.

4to. 506pp. Coloured frontispiece. Profusely illustrated in colour and black and white. Dust-jacket.

A critical guide with over 1600 illustrations that shows the enormous variety of styles, often with only small regional variations, of European furniture.
118 PINTO, Edward & Eva. Tunbridge and Scottish Souvenir Woodware. With Chapters on Bois Durci and Pyrography. London, G. Bell & Sons, 1970.

8vo. 149pp. Coloured frontispiece. Numerous illustrations. Dust-jacket.

The first full-length study of the decorative woodware produced in the nineteenth century at Tunbridge Wells and in Scotland.
119 REEVES, David. Furniture : An Explanatory History. London, Faber and Faber Limited, 1947.

8vo. 200pp. Frontispiece. Illustrations. Ownership inscription on title-page. Red cloth.

A work that covers French and English periods of furniture-making, the materials, the makers, how it is made, decorative treatments, and modern furniture and interior design.
120 ROE, F. Gordon. Home Furnishing with Antiques. Illustrations by Frances Maynard. London, John Baker, 1965.

8vo. 211pp. Numerous illustrations. Dust-jacket.

Includes an informative chapter on furniture.
121 ROGERS, John C. English Furniture : Its Essentials and Characteristics Simply and Clearly Explained for the Student and Small Collector. With a Foreword by H. Avray Tipping. London, Published at the Offices of ‘Country Life,’ Ltd., and by George Newnes, Ltd.; New York, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1923.

8vo. 188pp. Numerous illustrations. Diagrams. Ownership inscription on front free-endpaper. Green cloth.

A well-illustrated and comprehensive work presented in three sections: 'The Period of Oak Furniture', 'The Period of Walnut Furniture' and 'The Period of Mahogany Furniture'. It also offers an idea of when furniture, of any leading type, came into use, and of how it was altered in form and detail as time went on.
122 SAGLIO, André. French Furniture. London, B.T. Batsford; New York, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1913.

8vo. 194pp. Frontispiece. Illustrations. Blue cloth.

Originally published in 1907. André Saglio's survey stretches from the times of Gauls battling Romans through the medieval, Renaissance and Regency periods, to the opulence of Louis XVI, the violent Revolution and the rise of Napoleon.
123 YATES, Simon. An Encyclopedia of Chairs. London, The Apple Press, 1988.

4to. 127pp. Numerous coloured illustrations. Diagrams. Chart. Dust-jacket.

A well-illustrated introductory survey that covers the development of chair design chronologically.
124 YATES, Simon. An Encyclopedia of Tables. London, The Apple Press, 1990.

4to. 128pp. Numerous coloured and sepia illustrations. Diagrams. Chart. Dust-jacket.

A visual guide to the development of furniture from the earliest times to the present day.