Plate I.
Kloster Grüssau in Silesia. Since 1945 part of Poland, Silesia was a province of Habsburg
Austria until it was seized by Prussia in 1740–42. Central European boundaries have been very
fluctuating over the centuries.
The areas covered by Germany in the twenty-first century include many
striking regional variations, based partly in topography and geography, partly in
historical differences. Topographically, the German lands stretch from the sandy
coasts of the North Sea and Baltic Sea, with their trading ports, through the
heathy North German plain; then, broken by the hillier country of the Central
German Uplands (as in the Harz mountains, or the Erzgebirge), down through
the gentle undulations of southern Germany to the foothills of the Alps on the
borders with Austria and Switzerland. The climate varies from the mild, wet
Atlantic climate of the north and west to a drier, more continental climate, with
cold, snowy winters and hot summers punctuated by frequent thunderstorms, in
the south and east. Natural resources are variable: there are considerable deposits
of the inferior lignite (brown coal) in eastern Germany, which produces about a
third of the world’s total production, whereas in western Germany bituminous
coal is mined in greater quantities, particularly in the Ruhr area. Germany has
small amounts of natural gas and oil, insufficient for current energy needs, and is
reliant also on controversial nuclear power production. There are variable, but
not extensive, mineral deposits (iron ore, lead, zinc, potash salts). Soils and
farming conditions vary: in many areas, the land is left as heath or forest rather
than being put to grain production or pasture. In the 1980s, the population of
West Germany was slightly over 61 million, while that of East Germany was
somewhat under 17 million; in 1990, the population of united Germany was 78.3
million.
Historically, formed as they are of regions which had their own existence as
independent provinces or principalities in the past, the German lands show
striking regional variations based more in political, cultural and socioeconomic
history than in geography. What will strike the visitor to Germany are the results
of human occupation, human use of the environment, human beliefs, practices
and social relationships: mediaeval walled towns and castles, great baroque
churches and monasteries, princely palaces, different styles of farm house,
burgher house, or industrial slum. Regional stereotypes abound: Prussian
Protestant asceticism, militarism and conservatism is often contrasted with
Hamburg liberalism or with the more expansive mode of the Catholic, beer-
swilling, unintelligible Bavarians. There is a great variety of regional accents
and cultures still to be found in the more cosmopolitan and centralised Germany
of the late twentieth century. Even those with only a casual acquaintance will be
aware of differences between the Rhineland, with its castles and vineyards, the
industrial Ruhr (no longer belching the smoke and fumes it used to do before the
shift to high-tech industries in south-western Germany), the forests, streams and
cuckoo-clock attractions of the Black Forest, or the lakes and Alpine pastures of
Upper Bavaria. Fewer casual tourists will be familiar with the northern coasts,
the Frisian islands or the lakes and waters of Schleswig-Holstein, although they
may have visited Bremen, Hamburg and Lübeck; most will have sped through
the rolling Westphalian hills on a fast autobahn, bypassing the Lüneberg heath to
the north or the mediaeval attractions tucked away in the Harz mountains; very
few will have explored the forgotten communities in the Bohemian border
country and the Bavarian forest on the Czech border, or be aware of quite local
differences between such regions as the Spessart, the Kraichgau or the
Odenwald. Many will know the major urban centres, particularly cities such as
Munich, Nuremberg, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Cologne, but will have little idea about
the reasons for the decentralised nature of pre-1990 West German urban life
(with its capital, Bonn, so easily dismissed as ‘a small town in Germany’);
before the revolutionary events of autumn 1989, very few western visitors would
have penetrated further into East Germany than a day trip to its capital, East
Berlin. Eastern Germany, although smaller than the western areas of Germany,
evinces a comparable regional variation: from the sand dunes of the Baltic coast
in the north, through the sparsely populated lake country of Mecklenburg, down
to the varied regions of the hillier southern areas, including industrial centres
such as Halle, Leipzig, Erfurt and Chemnitz, major cultural centres such as
Dresden and Weimar, and tourist attractions in Saxon Switzerland, the
Thuringian forest, or the Harz mountains. All these regions differ for a multitude
of reasons beyond purely topographical factors such as proximity to rivers, sea
or mountains. Economically, they have been developed and exploited in different
ways and become involved as different elements in wider economic systems.
Culturally, the differences between Catholic and Protestant areas in the
confessionalised states of post-Reformation Germany endured and had a
profound impact over the centuries. Politically, the histories of the different
regions experienced a myriad of forms, a veritable laboratory for the historically
oriented political scientist. All these varied influences have left their imprint on
the more homogenised industrial Germany of today.
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