Bolivia: The Andes and Chaco Lowlands trip report
October 2014
By Eduardo Ormaeche
Blue-throated Macaw (photo Sue Bryan)
This was our second Bolivia birding tour, and it was a great success for everybody. Only infrequently visited by birders, Bolivia hosts 1432 species, with 20 endemics (including two magnificent macaws) and 48 threatened species. It is without doubt the richest landlocked country in the world in terms of species diversity.
Our birding tour to Bolivia allowed us to explore different habitats and ecosystems within this remote country, including tropical savannas, wetlands, the Llanos de Moxos around Trinidad – a tropical savanna ecoregion of northern Bolivia and home of the endangered Blue-throated Macaw, and the Chiquitania woodlands – a transitional ecotone type of xerofitic vegetation and Acacia-like trees, which is located between the Amazon rainforest, the Cerrado, and the Gran Chaco. In the Gran Chaco, an impenetrable dry woodland habitat, we spent some time in search of a handful of specialists and the most-wanted Black-legged Seriema.
We crossed through lush cloudforest and upper tropical forest and also birded the dry valleys between Comarapa and Santa Cruz de la Sierra, the high Andes in the Altiplano (the “High Plateau”), and Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake of the world and home to the flightless Titicaca Grebe.
We spent 17 days exploring and enjoying this unique country during a special tailor-made tour, and we had a great time from the moment we descended from the plane. We were looking at every single bird that crossed our path, but also with a special focus on numerous targets – birding without pressure of any kind. And we enjoyed the wildlife and the magnificent scenery as well. We managed to record 408 species during the trip, including birds of 62 different families, and 24 parrots (including seven macaws).
This will remain a highly memorable tour for the leader, because, among many special moments and birds and good black beers, I had the good fortune to spend my birthday in the great company of Paul, Sue, and Herman while watching the endemic and endangered Red-fronted Macaw in the Saipina canyon.
Red-fronted Macaw (photo Ken Logan)
We invite you to have a look at our revised 2015 Bolivia itinerary.
DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY
Day 1. November 19
Arrive in Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Birding around the airport. Overnight Santa Cruz de la Sierra
Day 2. November 20
Birding around the airport. Fly to Trinidad and birding at Loma Suarez. Overnight Trinidad
Day 3. November 21
Explore the grasslands south of Trinidad. Overnight Trinidad
Day 4. November 22
Birding at Laguna Suarez. Flight to Santa Cruz de la Sierra and birding the Botanical Gardens in the afternoon. Overnight Santa Cruz de la Sierra
Day 5. November 23
Transfer to Camiri, birding en route. Birding in the Chaco in the afternoon. Overnight Camiri
Day 6. November 24
Full day birding in the Chaco. Overnight Camiri
Day 7. November 25
Last morning in the Chaco and return transfer to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Overnight Santa Cruz de la Sierra
Day 8. November 26
Transfer to Refugio Los Volcanes Lodge, birding en route. Overnight Refugio Los Volcanes
Day 9. November 27
Full day birding at Refugio Los Volcanes Lodge. Overnight Refugio Los Volcanes
Day 10. November 28
Transfer to Comarapa, birding en route. Overnight Comarapa
Day 11. November 29
Explore the Saipina canyon for the Red-fronted Macaw. Birding the Saipina area. Return to Comarapa, Overnight Comarapa
Day 12. November 30
Birding the cloudforest at La Siberia. Transfer to Cochabamba. Overnight Cochabamba
Day 13. December 1
Birding the cloudforest at Tablas Monte in the Chapare. Birding Lake Alalay in the afternoon. Overnight Cochabamba
Day 14. December 2
Full day in the Cerro Tunari. Overnight Cochabamba
Day 15. December 3
Transfer to La Paz, birding on route. Overnight La Paz
Day 16. December 4
Full day exploring the Coroico road. In the afternoon return to La Paz. Overnight La Paz
Day 17. December 5
Transfer to Huarina at the shores of Lake Titicaca, birding during the day. Transfer to El Alto International Airport to connect with our flights back home
BOLIVIA SYSTEMATIC LIST, OCTOBER 2014
Taxonomy: IOC, International Ornithological Congress, 4.4
Abbreviations:
(H) Heard only
(E) Country endemic
TINAMIFORMES
Tinamidae
Grey Tinamou (H) Tinamus tao This large tinamou was heard a couple of times at Refugio Los Volcanes. Listed as Vulnerable.
Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus The classic bird call of the Amazon rainforest. One bird was seen briefly by Sue and the leader at the gallery forest of Beni. We were almost ready to see it again, when I realized we were standing below a Tangarana tree full of fire ants with several climbing on our trousers.
Brown Tinamou (H) Crypturellus obsoletus Heard at Refugio Los Volcanes. The tinamous belonging to the genus Crypturellus are usually notoriously difficult to see.
Tataupa Tinamou (H) Crypturellus tataupa Heard in the lowlands of Santa Cruz de la Sierra
Small-billed Tinamou (H) Crypturellus parvirostris Distantly heard in the Botanical Gardens of Santa Cruz de la Sierra
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens Two birds were seen during our search at the grasslands of the Viru Viru International Airport in Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
White-bellied Nothura Nothura boraquira Great views of one individual at Valle Sanchez near the Santa Cruz de la Sierra airport
RHEIFORMES
Rheidae
Greater Rhea Rhea americana At least eight birds were seen at the grasslands of the Viru Viru International Airport. Listed as Near-threatened. Here the subspecies araneipes. We spotted a few others on the route to Camiri, and we were surprised when we saw a few ostriches next to them, which are farmed in Bolivia.
ANSERIFORMES
Anhimidae
Southern Screamer Chauna torquata Seen on the Beni marshes
Anatidae
White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata Several seen on the Beni marshes
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis sylvicola Seen flying above the Beni marshes
Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera Several seen on the Altiplano
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata Flying by above the Beni marshes. Not a common species to see in the wild
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis Common in the Santa Cruz de la Sierra lowlands. Here the subspecies ipecutiri
Ringed Teal Callonetta leucophrys Great scope views of this handsome duck en route to the Chaco
Crested Duck Lophonetta specularioides Seen near Oruro and at Lake Titicaca. Here the subspecies alticola
Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera Several seen at Alalay Lake near Cochabamba. Here the subspecies orinoma
Yellow-billed Teal Anas flavirostris Seen at Alalay Lake. Formerly Speckled Teal, it has been split into two species, Yellow-billed Teal and Andean Teal.
Puna Teal Anas puna Seen at Alalay Lake
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Seen at Alalay Lake
White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis Two birds seen at Alalay Lake
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea Seen at Alalay Lake, Oruro, and Lake Titicaca
Rosy-billed Pochard Netta peposaca Great views of two pairs at Alalay Lake
GALLIFORMES
Cracidae
Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis Several birds seen in the Chaco
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Seen north of Trinidad
PODICIPEDIFORMES
Podicipedidae
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Great views in the Chaco
White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland Seen at Alalay Lake
Titicaca Grebe Rollandia microptera One of the best birds of the trip without hesitation. This mythical Grebe is restricted to Lake Titicaca, thus it is found in Bolivia and Peru only. Listed as Endangered. Together with the Junin Grebe it belongs to the group of flightless grebes. We had great scope views of at least four individuals at Lake Titicaca. Thanks to the deity of ornithology that the fog was gone by the time we arrived at our spot!
PHOENICOPTERIFORMES
Phoenicopteridae
Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis Several seen on a lake near Oruro. We had a few others flying above the Titicaca Grebe. Listed as Near-threatened. According to history, the vision of several Chilean Flamingos flying above the coast of Peru inspired the 19th century Argentine general José de San Martín to create the Peruvian flag based on the colors of the flamingos in flight.
CICONIIFORMES
Ciconiidae
Woodstork Mycteria americana Seen on the Beni marshes
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria Seen on the Beni marshes
PELECANIFORMES
Threskiornithidae
Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens Great views on the Llanos de Moxos in Beni
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus Seen in Beni
Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis One bird was seen at the Botanical Gardens of Santa Cruz de la Sierra and another on the route to the Chaco.
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus Several seen throughout the trip
Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi Common in the Altiplano
Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Great views of several birds on the Beni marshes
Ardeidae
Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum An adult with one young was seen well north of Trinidad.
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Seen at the Botanical Gardens of Santa Cruz de la Sierra and at Cochabamba
Striated Heron Butorides striata Common at several locations
Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen on the way to La Paz
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi A few on the Beni marshes
Great Egret Ardea alba Common on the Beni marshes
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Scarce this year, with only a few noted on the trip
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix Seen well on the Beni marshes
Phalacrocoracidae
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Common
ACCIPITRIFORMES
Cathartidae
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Common
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus One seen north of Trinidad
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa Paul spotted an adult soaring north of Trinidad
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus The largest flying bird in the world was seen well at Refugio Los Volcanes and Cerro Tunari. Listed as Near-threatened. It is the national bird of Ecuador, Colombia, Bolivia, and Chile.
Accipitridae
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Seen in the lowlands
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis Great views of several birds on the Beni marshes
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis At least seven birds were seen on the way to their roost at the pond of the Botanical Gardens of Santa Cruz de la Sierra before dusk.
Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens One seen in Beni
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Several birds seen in fields
Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga Seen along the road north of Trinidad
Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Common
White-rumped Hawk Parabuteo leucorrhous Great scope views of a perched individual along the Death Road in the Yungas
White-tailed Hawk Geranoaetus albicaudatus Seen in the Chaco
Variable Hawk Geranoaetus polyosoma Several seen at Cerro Tunari
Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus Great views of a bird flying virtually above our heads at the shores of Lake Titicaca
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Two birds were seen soaring above Refugio Los Volcanes
CARIAMIFORMES
Cariamidae
Black-legged Seriema Chunga burmeisteri I never struggled so much to find this species, which normally crosses the track in small groups in the Chaco near Boyuibe. We heard some individuals on the first afternoon, but without success, and spent the whole next morning on the search. At the eleventh hour, and after we had lost all hope and decided to drive back to town, the deity of ornithology heard our prayers and rewarded us with the sight of an immaculate individual standing next to the road, waiting for us, and allowing us good views. What can I say? GOAL!
EURYPYGIFORMES
Eurypygidae
Sunbittern Eurypyga helias Only a leader sighting of one individual flying above the stream at Refugio Los Volcanes, but we were more focused on the Slaty Gnateater.
RALLIFORMES
Rallidae
Rufous-sided Crake (H) Laterallus melanophaius Heard on the Beni marshes
Grey-necked Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus Great views on the Beni marshes
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus Seen on the Beni marshes
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus One seen at the pond behind the Cochabamba airport
Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata Common at Alalay Lake
Giant Coot Fulica gigantea One seen on a pond above La Paz
Andean Coot Fulica ardesiaca Seen at Alalay Lake
GRUIFORMES
Aramidae
Limpkin Aramus guarauna Common on the Beni marshes
CHARADRIIFORMES
Recurvirostridae
White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus Seen well on the way to the Chaco
Andean Avocet Recurvirostra andina Great views at Oruro and Titicaca Lake
Charadriidae
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Common in the lowlands. This is the national bird of Uruguay.
Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Seen in the Altiplano
Puna Plover Charadrius alticola Great views of one bird with chicks at the shores of a lake near Oruro
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris Seen well at the pond behind the Cochabamba airport
Jacanidae
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Common everywhere in Beni
Scolopacidae
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca Seen at Lake Titicaca
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Seen at a lake near Oruro
Baird’s Sandpiper Calidris bairdii Seen at a lake near Oruro
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Seen on the Beni marshes
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius Seen at a lake near Oruro
Wilson Phalarope Phalaropus tricolor Seen at a lake near Oruro
Laridae
Andean Gull Chroicocephalus serranus Common in the Altiplano
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex Seen nicely on the Beni marshes
Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris Seen nicely on the Beni marshes
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger A nice flock was seen south of Trinidad.
COLUMBIFORMES
Columbidae
Rock Dove Columba livia Common
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro Seen in the lowlands
Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa Common in the Altiplano
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis Seen north of Trinidad
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Seen at Refugio Los Volcanes
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Seen in La Siberia cloudforest and along the upper parts of the Coroico road
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Common below La Paz
Picui Ground Dove Columbina picui Common in the lowlands. Picui is the Guaraní Indian word for a small dove (in Paraguay).
Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti A few were seen in Beni.
Bare-faced Ground Dove Metriopelia ceciliae Excellent views of three birds on the way to La Paz
Black-winged Ground Dove Metriopelia melanoptera Seen well at Cerro Tunari
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi A few seen in Trinidad
Yungas Dove Leptotila megalura Heard at Refugio Los Volcanes and one seen well in Bermejo
White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata Great views of one bird perched in a tree at Tablas Monte in the cloud forest near Cochabamba. This is the first time I’ve seen a quail-dove in a tree.
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana Seen by Sue only along the Bermejo road
OPISTHOCOMIDORMES
Opisthocomidae
Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin Two birds were seen well in Beni.
CUCULIFORMES
Cuculidae
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Common in the lowlands
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Common around Santa Cruz de la Sierra
Greater Ani Crotophaga major Seen well in Beni
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia One responsive bird in Beni, and we had another one calling from a telephone wire.
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Seen in Tablas Monte
STRIGIFORMES
Strigidae
Rufescent Screech Owl Megascops ingens A highlight for the tour. A cooperative individual came above our heads in response to the tape at Refugio Los Volcanes.
Striped Owl Pseudoscops clamator Seen and heard by Sue during the first night in Trinidad
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Common in the lowlands
CAPRIMULGIFORMES
Nyctibiidae
Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus A roosting bird was seen well at Valle Sanchez and another one came to the tape before dawn at Refugio Los Volcanes.
Caprimulgidae
Nacunda Nighthawk Chordeiles nacunda Brief views of two birds north of Trinidad during our predawn drive
Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hudropsalis torquata A few females and one male were seen on the drive to Saipina.
APODIFORMES
Apodidae
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris A large flock was seen on the way to Cochabamba.
Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus Seen at Cerro Tunari
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus Seen at Refugio Los Volcanes
Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura Seen in Beni
Trochilidae
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei One seen during the trip
Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans Seen around Refugio Los Volcanes
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas Seen at Cerro Tunari
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis One bird seen in Beni
Gilded Sapphire Hylocharis chrysura Excellent views of one bird in Beni
White-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus guainumbi Seen well in Beni
White-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia chionogaster Seen around Comarapa
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata A juvenile was seen on the upper parts of the Coroico road.
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys One bird was seen in La Siberia cloudforest.
Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis Seen at the upper parts of the Coroico road
Violet-throated Startfrontlet Coeligena violifer Seen in La Siberia cloudforest
Red-tailed Comet Sappho sparganurus A red, shinning flash flew in front of us at Cerro Tunari, where we also saw a juvenile on a perch.
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon lucidus Seen in Beni
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina Common in La Siberia cloudforest. Tyrianthina refers to the color Tyrian purple, an ancient dye extracted from mollusks, popular during the Roman Empire.
TROGONIFORMES
Trogonidae
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui Seen in Valle Sanchez
CORACIIFORMES
Alcedinidae
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Seen in Beni
Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata Seen in Beni
Momotidae
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