9
After lying hove-to overnight, on the 23
rd
the brig continued northwards, although
strong offshore winds prevented Litke from hugging the coast as closely as he would have
preferred. He was watching for any significant break in the coastal mountains, suggesting a
strait running east. Two apparent openings turned out to be only inlets, however.
26
Finally, at
6.30 pm on the 24
th
at a dead-reckoning latitude of 74°10′N, Litke decided that he must have
overshot Matochkin Shar and turned back south. The true latitude of the entrance to the strait is
73°19′N. At noon next day his observed latitude was 74°23′N, i.e. over a full degree of latitude
(60 nautical miles – 111 km) north of the entrance to the strait. On this basis he deduced that he
had turned back at 74°45′N, and not 74°10′N, and that the farthest land he was able to see must
have lain north of the 75
th
parallel, i.e. north of Poluostrov Admiral’teystva.
26
ibid, p. 133.
10
Heading south Litke hugged the coast, only a few kilometers off, in ice-free water but
…Just as before we did not see a single feature which we might identify as the mouth
of Matochkin Shar. We did not see a single major inlet or any break in the chain of
mountains which might indicate a large strait, nor a single one of the small islands lying
off its mouth.
27
His observed noon latitude on the 26
th
was 73°17′N, so he had in fact just missed the
entrance to the strait. Smirennikov was no help, in that he still maintained that they were north
of Matochkin Shar. The only way to resolve the impasse would have been to investigate every
inlet by boat which, given the lateness of the season was impractical. Litke therefore decided to
abandon his search for Matochkin Shar and to focus on surveying the coast further south.
By late on the 26
th
the brig was back abeam of Gora Pervousmotrennaya, and on the
morning of the 27
th
a sudden shoaling to less than 20 meters forced Litke to head out to sea for
half an hour to avoid the dangerous reefs off Mys Britvin. He then continued south, fairly close
inshore, across Zaliv Mollera towards Severnyy Gusinniy Nos. In the late afternoon of the 27
th
the sight of a large hut, with a probable bath-house beside it, tempted Litke to close to within 3
km of the shore to get a better look. Although the lead was being cast constantly, the depth
suddenly decreased to 5 m without warning and the brig struck heavily, twice, but fortunately
received no damage.
As Novaya Zemlya continued south along the outer coast of Gusinaya Zemlya, snow
started to fall, and then drifting floes began to appear out of the fog. When the fog cleared just
before noon it revealed that the brig had strayed into a trap, a continuous wall of close ice
extended from NW to SE, butting against the coast to the south. For two days Litke had to beat
back north for some 50 km before he could round the northern end of this ice field; the snow
continued with the temperature as low as -1.5°C at times. Aware that the Dvina River
sometimes froze up by the end of October, and that it might take a month to reach its mouth,
Litke was now forced to abandon any further plans for exploring the southern coasts of Novaya
Zemlya, and to start for home.
Next day, 31 August, with snow falling, he set a course for Mys Gorodetskiy on the
west shore of the entrance to the White Sea. But at 3 am on 1 September, to his great surprise a
coast which could only be that of Kanin Nos, was spotted ahead, although he had expected that
his course would take him about 65 km west of that headland. Adjusting his course to avoid the
cape he headed for and soon sighted Mys Obornyy, to the northwest of Mys Gorodetskiy, at 4
pm. Swinging south, next morning he sighted the lighthouse on Mys Orlovskiy. Novaya
Zemlya was then becalmed for the whole of the 2
nd
, but then experienced five days of
headwinds, forcing Litke to tack repeatedly as he headed south and southeast towards
Arkhangel’sk.
He reached the Nikol’skiy beacon at the mouth of the Dvina on the morning of the 8
th
,
hoping to find a pilot to take him across the bar; there was a hut for the pilots at the beacon.
There was no response from the beacon however and Litke was forced to wait for the
remainder of the 8
th
and the morning of the 9
th
, firing guns repeatedly and burning lights at
night; the situation was becoming increasingly urgent since storm clouds were building to the
northwest, i.e. threatening to catch the brig on a lee shore. The pilots lived on Ostrov
Mudyuzhskiy, within sight of the brig, but there was no response from there either. A pilot
finally arrived at noon on the 9
th
. The reason for the delay was that the 8
th
was a major holiday,
27
ibid, p. 134.
11
the feast of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, and also the first day of the sale of sea fish in
Arkhangel’sk. The pilots felt that they had a right to enjoy a holiday too.
Litke’s troubles were not over yet, however. The pilot, probably still drunk, managed to
run the brig aground on the bar. Spotting this from Ostrov Mudyuzhskiy, all the pilots came
out by boat and tendered plenty of advice. Fortunately, however the tide was rising and
Novaya Zemlya was soon refloated. After crossing the bar Litke anchored for the night off
Ostrov Mudyuzhskiy, but next morning found that the brig was again aground. It was not until
the early hours of 11 September that it managed to get under way for the run up the river,
finally reaching Arkhangel’sk safely at 11 am that morning.
Novaya Zemlya was unloaded, then moved to Lapominskaya Gavan’ for the winter.
Litke settled down in Arkhangel’sk to put his journal in order and to draft a map of his voyage.
Although undoubtedly disappointed that he had been unable to fulfil a major objective, namely
a survey of Matochkin Shar, he could console himself with the fact that that he had mapped an
extensive section of the west coast of Novaya Zemlya and had established for future reference
that the southern part of that coast might remain blocked by ice until quite late in the year when
sections further north were already ice-free.
In late November he received instructions from the Naval Minister to return to St
Petersburg with all his documents, and he arrived in the capital in early December.
Second expedition 1822
Soon after his return he was informed that he was to renew his surveys of Novaya Zemlya in
the following year (1822) but that, since he had confirmed that the coasts of Novaya Zemlya
were not free of ice until quite late in the season, he would start by surveying the Lapland coast
from Mys Svyatoy Nos west to Kol’skiy Zaliv, with a special emphasis on the details of
anchorages. While mariners, both Russian and foreign had been sailing this coast for centuries,
remarkably there were still no accurate, detailed charts of it. Litke was directed to survey all
useful anchorages from boats, with an emphasis on soundings, sea-bed materials, currents and
tides and to make views of entrances to anchorages, capes and other conspicuous features. He
was to proceed to Novaya Zemlya at the end of July and, ice-conditions permitting, was to
head to its northern tip and determine its coordinates. Returning to Matochkin Shar he was to
determine the coordinates of its entrance and to send two oared boats through the strait to the
Kara Sea; there one was to survey northwards and the other southwards as far as time
permitted. He was admonished not to winter on Novaya Zemlya,
28
but in case this could not be
avoided, he would be provided with a disassembled house and/or canvas housing to cover the
upper decks of his ship, and bricks for a stove. On his way back to Arkhangel’sk, in view of his
own doubts as to the position of Kanin Nos as shown on earlier maps, he was to check the
distance between Kanin Nos and Svyatoy Nos.
Despite his best efforts, due to delays about obtaining instruments Litke was unable to
get away from St Petersburg until 21 March 1822. By then, due to an unusually early spring,
there was no snow left on the southern part of the road to Arkhangel’sk, and since his
barometers, chronometers etc. would not have survived the journey by post-coach, he had to
buy his own carriage. Two post-stations past Vytegra (near Onezhskoye Ozero) he caught up
with the retreating snow on the highway and was able to mount his carriage on runners and to
proceed comfortably from there, although swollen rivers, or rivers still covered with thin ice,
posed serious problems. He finally reached Arkhangel’sk on 31 March. On his arrival he
28
ibid, p. 143.