ROUTE
During the Soviet era, Latvia was the western border of the
USSR, and that made it a strategic location in which lots of
military resources were concentrated. During the Soviet
occupation, there were more than 1,000 Soviet military units in
Latvia, and they controlled some 600 facilities equalling to
more than 10% of the territory of the Latvian SSR. In other
words, Latvia was behind the Iron Curtain for nearly half a
century. Border guard posts, tank bases, aviation bases,
military airfields, storage facilities for weapons and munitions
(including nuclear missiles), military espionage facilities and
other, similar entities were mostly centred on the shore of the
Baltic Sea, where there was a special frontier regime.
It was just 20 years ago that people were allowed to be on the
beach only during sunlight and in very limited areas. Sand on
the beach was always ploughed, and giant spotlights lit up the
shoreline to seek out border regime violators who were more
imagined than real. There were border guard towers all along
the shore, with military personnel monitoring every step that
local civilians took. Along the roads in the seaside regions,
there were guard posts which one could pass only with special
(and temporary) passes.
Several unique objects have survived since the Soviet era.
The Irbene radio telescope, for instance, has no analogue in a
radius of several thousand kilometres. By contrast, the unique
Skrunda radar station, alas, was blown up, and Soviet
submarines were cut up into scrap.
This is a route for active hikers and bicyclists who like to look
at natural and human landscapes and are interested in the
twists and turns of Latvian history.
Season:
April – October
Type of vehicle:
No restrictions
Beginning and end:
Rīga, but you can start anywhere,
because this is a circular route
Length:
~ 700 km
Duration:
4 Tage
Difficulty:
Relatively easy
Road cover:
Paved and earthen roads
Route:
Rīga – Dobele – Īle – Zvārde – Saldus – Skrunda –
Vaiņode – Liepāja – Ziemupe – Ventspils Irbene – Tukums –
Rīga
Note!
• Bring maps at a scale of 1:200,000 and 1:100,000
• Some of the military facilities have no improvements, and
some are partly closed. There are sites that can be
dangerous to tourists, and these must be viewed from the
outside (the
and
symbol is used to denote these
sites). The main purpose of this tour is to learn about
Latvia’s military past and history, not to crawl into former
fortification systems and objects. You are responsible for
your own safety!
• If guides are available, be sure to make use of them.
www.celotajs.lv
,+371 67617600
www.saldus.lv
,+371 63807443
www.liepaja.lv
,+371 63480808
www.talsi.lv
,+371 63224165
www.pavilosta.lv
,+371 63498229
www.tourism.ventspils.lv
,+371 63622263
www.zemgaletourism.lv,
+371 63707255
www.visittukums.lv
,+371 63124451
Information:
Emergency services: 112
SELFDRIVE
THE MILITARY HERITAGE
AND ENVIRONMENT OF KURZEME
The NATURA 2000 system was established by
European Union member states to protect a
large series of environmental territories. In Latvia’s case, the
system includes territories that were protected before it was
set up, as well as 122 new territories. Each EU member
state establishes its own system of territories, and these are
then joined in the central system. NATURA 2000 territories
are of European importance and are environmentally
protected. Along this route, the most interesting NATURA
2000 territories include the Zvārde Forest Park, the Embūte
Nature Park, the Ziemupe Nature Reserve and the Nature
Park of the Ancient Abava River Valley. While in these
territories, please be gentle with environmental, cultural and
historical values. Keep the “interests” of birds in mind when
birdwatching.
More about the Baltic Green Belt and its activities can be found on the Country Traveller homepage
www.countryholidays.lv
!
This project is partly financed by the European Union
(ERDF) within the BSR Programme
Military secrets have always been carefully protected
and hidden. It’s no surprise that little is known about
the military presence in Latvia all the way up until
1994, when the Russian forces were withdrawn. The
Country Traveller database of military heritage lists
various objects and provides information about what
they were in Soviet times, what happened, there, and
how the presence of the military affected the lives of
local residents. There are photos with each object,
and each object is on the Google map which shows
its location from a satellite image. Nearly each object
has a story, joke or legend told by eyewitnesses. If
you have your own story or review of a location,
please send it in, and we’ll be happy to publish it!
Info:
http://www.celotajs.lv/cont/wrth/military_lv.html
MILITARY HERITAGE
The “Green Belt”
The military route in Kurzeme is
part of the “Baltic Green Belt”
project. The European Green Belt
is an initiative that is managed by
the World Conservation Unit. The
Green
Belt
brings
together
national parks, nature parks,
biosphere
reserves,
and
transfrontier protected zones. Also
part of the mix are unprotected
natural territories along and
across borders. The programme
supports regional development
initiatives that are aimed at
protecting the environment.
The Green Belt crosses 23
countries and is approximately
8,500 km in length. It starts in the
far North of Europe, passing
through Central Europe along the
borders of Slovenia, Hungary and
Croatia, all the way to the Black
Sea, the Aegean Sea, the Ionian
Sea, and the Adriatic Sea. It ends
along the borders of Albania,
Macedonia, Romania, Serbia,
Montenegro and Turkey. The zone
includes 3,272 protected natural
territories in a 25km buffer zone
on either side of the Green Belt.
The Green Belt organisation is an
important marketing instrument in
Europe for existing and future
protected territories in border
regions. It organises initiatives
that seek to establish strategic
synergy with important economic
goals such as tourism. More
information about the Green Belt
can
be
found
at
http://europeangreenbelt.org
.
The “Baltic Green Belt” project
will add territories in the East of
Germany and in the territory of
the former Soviet Union to the
project.
European Green Belt
POINTS OF INTEREST
Lauku ce otājs
40, Kalnciema str., Riga, LV1046, Latvia
Phone:+371 67617600, Fax: +371 67830041
lauku@celotajs.lv, www.countryholidays.lv
www.countryholidays.lv
Photo: Lauku ceļotājs (Juris Smaļinskis)
1
2
Day 1: Rīga – Dobele – Saldus
130 km
1
The Skulte aeroplane
of a rare monument in the village of Skulte.
(23°59'19";57°10'19")
2
Along the way, you can hike
the Beberbe i Nature Park
,
which was established
primarily to protect the “green zone” of Rīga.
3
A memorial park to the Christmas Battles
Ložmetējkalns Hill, the Tīreļpourvs
swamp, and the Mangaļi homestead where is an exhibit devoted to the battles, the so
called “German ramparts,” etc. (23°53'42.9";56°59'18")
4
The Dobele tank base and Gardene
. To the South of Gardene, one of the largest
tank bases of the Baltic Military District was found in Soviet times. From the Dobele
Annenieki road, a paved army road turns off to the base, and it can still be used today.
(22°56'22";57°1'54")
5
The Īle partisan bunker
, established by antiSoviet partisans in October 1948, has been
restored in commemoration of the event and can be visited by any interested party.
(23°46'8";57°8'53")
6
The Zvārde base
territory of more than 24,400 hectares was used by the Soviet army
for aviation target practice. We recommend that you not wander off the roads.
(23°10'52";57°4'57")
7
The Zvārde base is in
the Zvārde Forests Nature Park
.
Day 2: Saldus - Liepāja
140 km
8
The Skrunda army base
is inaccessible and guarded, but it’s worth mentioning,
because the famous Skrunda radar station which was blown up after Latvia regained its
independence was located here.
9
To the Northwest and West of Skrunda are
the Skrunda Ponds
, which are
important for migrating water birds which nest there. The ponds can be seen from the Rīga
Liepāja highway.
A
Along the way to Vaiņode, you can take a look at
the Embūte Nature Park
major
natural and cultural monuments such as the Embūte castle hill, and ruins of a baronial estate,
castle and church. The Courlandian warrior Indulis died here. You can view the Joda dam,
meadows,
B
a viewing platform, etc. There are unmarked bicycle routes in the area.
C
The Vai ode airfield
was one of the largest military airfields of the Soviet army in the
Baltic republics, but even before that, during the first period of Latvian independence,
Latvian dirigibles were based here. Tel.No. for the guide: +371 29229743.
(22°33'57";56°57'14")
D
Liepāja: The Karosta Prison
. We don’t want to describe this place – just go and take a
look! Tel. Nr. +371 26369470. (22°30'19";57°4'24.9")
In the evening: Stroll from
E
the Northern breakwater of Liepāja (22°33'37";56°39'11") to
the Northern forts (around 4.5 kilometres in each direction – see the next three
destinations).
F
The No. 3 coastal defence battery
is visually expressive because its positions and
many of its elements were washed into the sea fully or in part, thus creating an unusual
coastal landscape. Alas, this is an historical monument which must bow before the mighty
strength of nature. (22°27'2";57°2'15")
G
The No. 23 coastal defence battery
is easiest stop if you walk down the seashore,
because one of its four positions is on the beach, rinsed by the waves of the sea. The other
positions – the tower and other elements – are in the pine forest that is alongside the
seashore. (22°27'41";57°1'54")
H
The North forts
are on the edge of the sea and have been partly washed away. This
is a small but very impressive part of Liepāja’s unique
I
fortification system
, which once
encircled the entire town. The underground bunkers of the fort are on two levels, and if you
can find a guide, take a look (tours are organised from the Karosta prison). Tel.No. for
guide: +371 26369470. (22°27'41";57°3'31")
J
To the East of Liepāja is
Lake Liepāja
– one of the most important lakes for nesting
and migrating birds along the shores of the Baltic Sea. More than 100 species have been
spotted here. There are interesting viewing areas and landscapes if you walk or bike the
system of dams along the Southwestern side of the lake (watch out – some of the area will
offer extreme adventures, particularly during the summer!).
Day 3: Liepāja - Ventspils
120 km
A bike route via Liepāja:
K
Diver training centre –
L
Naval officer centre – Northern
breakwater – Northern forts (if you didn’t take the hiking route cited above) – Fortress canal
– Lunette with a view of Lake Tosmare Central fort –
M
Submarine base
(21°8'57";56°33'57") –
N
Stage – Karosta canal
O
Kalpaks bridge.
P
The Ziemupe zenith missile base
– just a few buildings, missile sites and a
residential building are all that’s left of the No. 158 zenith missile base these days.
(22°14'10";56°54'21")
Q
The Ziemupe Nature Reserve
is on the shores of the Baltic Sea and was set up to
protect the diverse shoreline biotopes that are found here. The Gray Dunes are located here,
as are several forest biotopes. There is a range of rare and protected plants and animals here.
Near the centre of Ziemupe, there is a wellappointed car park with educational information
stands at the shore of the sea.
R
The firing range at Skujnieki
was used for summer sports and firearms training back
in the day. (22°42'11";57°12'38")
S
The Cirpstene zenith missile base
was once a very important coastal defence
object. It is a visually interesting and impressive territory near the shore.
(22°37'15";57°18'10")
Day 4: Ventspils – Tukums - Rīga
160 km
A bicycle route around Ventspils: Seaside Openair Museum –
T
Former Soviet
coastal batteries (22°58'20";57°10'29") –
U
Zenith missile brigade and base – Army
shoreline road –
V
Ventspils airport (former USSR aerodrome) (23°0'58";57°18'42") –
Lemberg’s “Hat” –
W
Army village for border guards, communications officials and zenith
missile staff (22°45'29";57°18'31") –
X
Former military hospital (22°38'34";57°22'26") –
Seaside Openair Museum
Y
The Irbene radio telescope
was used for antiespionage needs back in the day. Irbene
was the site of various military units and objects, including the army village that has been
abandoned now. Tel.No. for guide: +371 63682541. (22°34'17";57°20'18")
Z
The Lt Roberts Rubenis Battalion Museum
restored settlement and bunker of the
No. 2 Brigade of the Rubenis Battalion Tel. Nr.: +371 26559172
[
Further along the route, stop at
the Ancient Abava River Valley Nature Park
one
of the most expressive terrains in this part of Kurzeme. There are nature trails for tourists, and
the Abava is enormously popular among water tourists.
\
The Tukums airfield
is the site of countless legends from the Soviet era. The airfield
is closed to public visitors at this time, but an aviation festival is held here late in August
each year. (23°0'58";57°7'16")
Symbols:
Visit nor possible/recommended!
Warning visit can be dangerous!
The Skulte aeroplane
The Īle partisan bunker
The Skrunda Ponds
The Karosta Prison
The No. 3 coastal
defence battery
The North forts
The Vītiņi meadows on the
Northeastern shore of Lake
The No. 23 coastal
defence battery
The firing range at Skujnieki
The Cirpstene zenith missile base
Army neighborhood
for border guards
Former military hospital
The Irbene radio telescope
A former border control facility
The Ancient Abava River
Valley Nature Park